Île d’Orléans, Island of Enchantment: Saint-François

Île d’Orléans is but a small island on the Saint-Lawrence River about five kilometers east of downtown Québec City, away from the hustle and bustle of urban life and the tourist mob, but its historical and cultural significance cannot be discounted. In fact, diminutive as it is in the whole province of Québec, it is considered the “Birthplace of New France” and the “Cradle of French civilization in North America.”

Île d’Orléans was one of the first parts of the province that was settled by the French. In the 17^th century, more than 300 families came here from north-west France, mostly from the Normandy and Pitou regions, to establish permanent homes in what was then New France. Some have stayed there for centuries, while others have spread out to the mainland. A large percentage of French Canadians can actually trace their ancestry back to the early residents of this island.

But it is even older than that. The island has long been inhabited by Indigenous tribes. In fact, the Huron peoples called it Minigo, meaning “enchanted island.” When French explorer Jacques Cartier first set foot on this land in 1535, he named it Île de Bascuz (Island of Bacchus), after the Greek god of wine, because of the abundance of wild grape vines growing all over the island. When he returned a year later, he renamed it Île d’Orléans in honour of Henri II, Duke of Orléans and the second son of Francis I, the then-King of France.

The first settlers were attracted by the island’s fertile soil and since the early days of colonization, agriculture has been the main livelihood of its people. Known as “The Garden of Québec,” it remains a largely rural place and its current inhabitants have preserved its pastoral heritage, even after the island became more accessible with the completion of the Pont de l’Île in 1935 that connected it to the mainland in Beauport.

And despite the increase in traffic and the influx of visitors, the island has maintained its historical character and traditional way of life. More than 600 of its houses and buildings were classified as heritage property and in 1990, the entire island was designated a National Historic Site of Canada, thus protecting it from commercial development.

Today, Île d’Orléans is a popular destination for day-trippers from Québec City, as well as avid cyclists and hiking enthusiasts. It has also carved its place as the epicentre of Québec’s agri-tourism movement and a culinary haven. Just 15 minutes from Québec City by car, and about 8 kilometers wide and 35 kilometers long, it can easily be explored from a few hours to a full day, depending on the number of stops you choose to make.

A 60-kilometer road called Chemin Royale circles the whole island and three main roads, Rue d’Orléans, Route Prévost, and Route des Prêtre, connect it from north to south near the western tip. You may have heard that Chemin Royale was featured in a 1975 song entitled, “Le Tour de l’Île” composed by Francophone musician and Île d’Orléans-native, Félix Leclerc.

If you travel along the perimeter of the island along this route, you will be treated to its spectacular landscape, from jagged coves and capes to hilly reliefs and small valleys, as well as the stretch of greenery with fields of berries and luscious vineyards, not to mention the gorgeous scenery stretching along the banks of the Saint Lawrence River. No wonder, Sir Felix was inspired by the beauty and had set it to music.

Though I have never heard his song which, for sure, was written in French, I think I could relate with his wistful sentiments. When my family and I drove around the island, we simply fell under its spell – so simple and rustic, yet full of warmth and charm.

From the bridge, we traveled counterclockwise via Chemin Royale. Following this road will give you the opportunity to see all six villages that comprise the island – Sainte-Pétronille, Saint-Laurent, Saint-Jean, Saint-François, Sainte-Famille, and Saint-Pierre.

Saint-François

Saint-Francois is at the island’s most northeastern tip and the Saint Lawrence River is ten times wider here than when it flows past Québec City. The drive to the centre of the village is particularly scenic. On one side, you can enjoy the unobstructed view of the Laurentian Mountains on the other side of the river, while on the opposite side is Mont Sainte-Anne with its slopes scored by ski trails.

The village is actually composed of the eastern point of the island known as Argentenay and two nearby small islands – Île Madame and Île Ruau, which are part of the Montmagny Archipelago.

The village has a 60-foot high Observation Tower at its far end which visitors can climb. From there, you can admire the natural landscapes of the island and the outlying areas of the archipelago. We didn’t stop to climb the tower, but we stopped to see the church when we reached the sharp bend on the road.

The current Church of Saint-François is a replacement of the original one built in 1734. It was destroyed by fire following a car accident in 1988 and was rebuilt in 1992. It was closed when we arrived. Beside it is the old parish school, one of the oldest in Québec and is used now as a seasonal art gallery. Not far from it is another branch of Chocolaterie de l'Île d'Orléans which was already closed (we were glad we already stopped at their Sainte-Petronille location) and the Confisérie de la Vielle École, a candy shop that sells artisanal chocolate products, fudge, and homemade candies.

We saw some signs for campgrounds and shops specializing in camping and outdoor sports gear. I guess this area is a popular camping place.

Once we looped around the island’s northern edge and started driving west, there were less shops and more farmland. Saint-François is known for potatoes and leeks with its slopes on both sides devoted to farming. The village’s soil composition is said to be quite interesting – on one side, they have clay-based soil, and on the other, a sandy mixture.

The rest of our drive was quite relaxing as we just enjoyed the rows and rows of farmlands dotted with centuries-old farmhouses.