Flying Over Canyon Sainte-Anne

One attraction that we did not want to miss while in the Beaupré area was the forest immersion experience at Canyon Sainte-Anne.

Just a 15-minute drive from our hotel is a spectacular steep-sided canyon carved out of a 1.2 billion-year-old bedrock by a majestic waterfall that has a 74-meter drop. The site sits on the edge of the Beaupré Coast and the Charlevoix regions of Quebec, and is part of the Canadian Shield.

It was discovered by the McNicoll Brothers who were there in 1965 on a camping trip along the shores of the Sainte-Anne-du-Nord River, a famous route used by loggers at the start of the 20^th century. The campers met a former logger who told them about the magnificent falls, which was, at that time, known only to locals. As there were no roads yet, they made their way through the woods through a small path in the forest to behold its secret. Two years later, they purchased the land leading to the river and the falls, and then developed the park.

Today, this attraction is a blend of the natural and the commercial. Within the park, you will enjoy some breathtaking scenery with the view of the gorge, the lush forests around it, and the shimmering waterfalls cascading down huge boulders and crashing down into a giant pothole. On a lucky day, you could perhaps catch a glimpse of a magical rainbow peeking through the mists of the waterfalls.

If you are in the mood for a hike, you could take one of the picturesque trails that criss-cross the forest and walk on three suspension bridges, one of which hangs 60 meters in the air and is one of the highest in Quebec. Strategic viewpoints dot the area where you can stop for a rest or for a photo shoot.

If you have mobility issues, there is a shuttle service that traverses the north shore of the canyon and will allow you to enjoy the site while comfortably seated. It stops at various observation points, where you can stretch your legs and take photos.

If you are seeking some adrenaline rush, there are a couple of activities that could satiate your adventurous spirit. The first one is the Air Canyon, a two-seater, high-speed, zipline ride that crosses over the gorge at 50 kilometers per hour. The second one is the Via Ferrata (“Iron Road”), which I will describe as a cross between hiking and rock-climbing. Clipped in by a harness, you tackle rocky cliffs via steel cables that follow the circuit across rock formations down to The Giant’s Pothole and alongside the waterfall.

We decided to do the Air Canyon ride.... well, actually, it was just me who decided to do it. While my husband and our son contemplated on its safety, I found someone with whom to ride. The line-up was rather short that day, so in theory, I could have taken the two-seater car all by myself, but I was not willing to go solo. Fortunately, there was an older Chinese gentleman in front of us who couldn’t convince his wife nor his adult daughter to ride with him, so I volunteered. I told him that I didn’t want to do it alone and that my husband and son were still thinking whether they were going or not. He didn’t mind, so it was a quick deal for us.

The ride was basically an open double-chair that soars over the stunning rock and water panorama at full speed. We were swung backwards first until we reached the end of the line, where we found ourselves dangling 90 meters above the canyon’s gorge and its ferocious rumbling waters. It was nerve-wracking and exhilarating at the same time, and after the initial shock, I actually enjoyed it. The Chinese gentleman asked me if I was scared and I confidently said, “Not anymore.” I felt like an eagle sweeping over the landscape. After a few seconds of dangling mid-air, we were swung forwards back to where we started.

When my son saw me smiling and giving them an enthusiastic thumbs-up as I got off, he figured this was not so scary after all. I asked him if he wanted to give it a go and after getting his Dad to agree to ride with him, off they went. My big boy and my small boy enjoyed it so much that they even went a second time.

We hung around the area for a bit, taking pictures by the Air Canyon sign and eating some finger snacks. When the last group of Air Canyon riders left, the ride operator saw us and asked our son if he wanted to go again…for free. I guess he was either looking for something to do because the ride was open for fifteen more minutes and there were no more customers left, or he was thrilled that our boy overcame his initial fear that he made us an offer, on-the-house.

“Why not,” we said. This time, I went with our boy. He was chuckling the whole time and saying, “wheeee” like he was just on a playground swing, while I tried to stifle my baby screams. When we landed, he proudly said that he was the winner because he did it three times, while Dad and Mom only got to go twice.

The Via Ferrata, on the other hand, was a different baby. Though the sign says that this is a “family-friendly” and a “for-all-ages” kind of activity that does not require a high level of physical fitness, we were skeptical…or maybe just plain-scared-but-in-denial. This trek takes you across a monkey bridge to reach the pillars of the falls via a series of cable bridges, iron hands, and footholds while a harness precariously tethers you. There are different climbing routes available for all levels of physical fitness, including a very easy one for children and there were more than enough guides supervising. We still decided to take a pass. Maybe next time, when our little boy is taller.

Instead, we enjoyed a leisurely hike along a relatively easy trail in the forest that enabled us to admire the old rock walls that line up the path, the two steep banks of the Sainte-Anne-du-Nord River, and of course, the waterfalls, which is the highlight of the park. For the most part, the trail was flat and groomed, which made it very easy to navigate, especially for young families with kids in strollers, dog walkers, people in wheelchairs or those walking with canes.

Our little boy enjoyed crossing the gently swaying suspension bridges high above the abyss and going up and down the 187-step wooden staircase. I could not keep up with him, but I was glad there were several viewpoints where we could stop to catch our breath and simply enjoy our amazing surroundings. These strategic spots provide an up-close view of the main falls, the giant pothole, and the mini-falls cascading down the gorge. We were close enough to catch the mist from the waters and to hear their mighty roar.

Our hike was only around two kilometers along the way and it was fun and educational at the same time. Throughout the path, there were interpretation panels that tell you about the park’s history and landscape and describe the area’s flora and fauna.

One section of the park is devoted to kids. It has a small playground surrounded by animal sculptures representing the spirits of the forest. In the summer, they offer games and activities, such as treasure hunts, giant puzzles, sudokus, and story-telling. However, if you have an entire forest around you, this was a secondary treat.

At the end of our hike, I found my feet very sore, but my boys were still full of energy. We saw the shuttle service heading back to the main pavilion. Perfect timing, at least for me. When the driver saw us, he asked if we wanted a ride and mentioned that this was the last trip. My boys wanted to walk, but I took the offer to give my feet some respite. In the end, my boys decided to join me because our son thought it would be cool to ride the shuttle.

Back at the pavilion where we bought our entrance and Air Canyon tickets earlier, we checked out the souvenir store. There is also a restaurant with indoor dining, but should you elect to enjoy your meals outdoors, there is a picnic area shaded by trees and frequented by chirping birds. However, as the park was closing, we left shortly and headed back to our hotel, still on high with the memory of flying over the forest and the canyon.