Quintessential Québec City: Old Upper Town

Québec City will always stand-out from amongst the other big cities in Canada. Its charming quaintness emanates from a blend of North American and European cultures that is not intrinsically and purely North American, but not comprehensively European either. Rather, it has a unique characteristic that embraces the combined heritage of all the peoples that have lived in that land while never losing touch with its French connections. The result is a seamless amalgamation of various elements of culture that gives it its very own distinct identity.

It is not unusual to hear first time visitors say that being in the city is like being in Europe, but after at least half a day, they’d realize that they are very much still in North America. It happened to me.

The first time I set foot in Québec City on a cruise many years back, I felt transported to another continent as our ship docked at the Saint-Lawrence River and I got a glimpse of the old stone houses in the distance. It was nothing like Vancouver or Toronto…and even its sister city, Montréal.

The architecture, the language, the vibe, the air of antiquity, particularly in the Old Town, all scream, “I am ancient and I have a long, colourful story to tell…” Yet, after my encounter with the locals, I knew I was still home. This is still Canada…but the wonderfully whimsical part of Canada. And I never get tired of exploring it every time I go back.

Our 2017 visit to Québec City was the longest one, out of our other trips. That time, we stayed for five days to watch the parade and enjoy the festivities of Les Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France (The New France Festival). We spent a lot of time wandering around and getting to know its neighbourhoods a little better.

In 2018, we went back to accompany our son when he participated in a national chess tournament. We stayed for four days. In between matches and after the last match of each day, we’d go for walks and sightseeing.

This series will be about the neighbourhoods that we explored.

Old Upper Town

Tourists are usually drawn to the Old Town, split between the Old Upper Town (Haute Ville or Vieux Québec) up the hill, and the Old Lower Town (Basse Ville) down the hill.

The Old Upper Town, perched upon the Cap Diamant Cliffs overlooking the Saint-Lawrence River, is where the first French foothold was established by Samuel de Champlain.

There, you will find the imposing Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, the iconic hotel that towers above the city like a modern-day fairy tale castle with its circular towers, tall turrets, ornate gables, and its asymmetrical profile. Its design is derived from the medieval chateaux that dot the Loire Valley in France. So beautiful and so stately it is that it is said to be the most photographed hotel in the whole world and I assure you that every Québec City visitor, including me, has taken pictures of this structure from various angles.

One does not have to stay in this luxurious hotel to enjoy this historic building. One can always go inside to admire the renovated lobby and its corridors lined with glass cases that display artifacts going back 400 years. Various art works – paintings, sculptures, drawings, and the like –are also featured in designated nooks. Art exhibits are often hosted here and if memory serves me right, there is even an art gallery tucked in one corner where one can purchase paintings from a revolving cadre of local artists. Aside from a casual art appreciation walk, I go there mostly to use their washroom facilities or take a coffee break at Starbuck’s by the back entrance. I kid you not, but it has become our family tradition to always walk back this hotel to freshen up no matter where we are in the Old Town. Why use other washrooms when you can go to the Fairmont?

Outside, you can stroll along Dufferin Terrace (Terrasse Dufferin), the boardwalk named after Lord Dufferin, once a Governor General of Canada, to enjoy the river views or hold a picnic on the grounds. There is a gazebo in the middle where musical performances are sometimes held in the summer. 

And hidden underneath the terrasse is the Saint-Louis Forts and Châteaux National Historic Site, which is open to the public in the summer months. This authentic archaeological crypt reveals the official residence and seat of power of the French and British governors between 1620 and 1834. One can opt for either a self-guided tour or a more extensive one conducted by a Parks Canada staff member. But to be honest with you, on all my trips to Québec City, I have never taken this tour. I would usually just peek through those glass floors installed on the boardwalk where one can see portions of the ruins of four forts and two châteaux constructed by Samuel de Champlain, a French explorer and cartographer best known for establishing and governing the settlements of New France and the city of Québec.  Maybe we’ll go on our next visit.

Near the Monument of Samuel de Champlain is where crowds usually conglomerate in the summer. Though the terrasse is peppered with street performers, the main events are staged in front of the statue. I’ve seen bikers doing stunts, fire eaters, circus troupes, trapeze artists, contortionists, and mimes. For a small donation, you get some amazing entertainment.

Street performance is a tradition recognized in Québec. In fact, there is a wooden sign there that says, “Share in our whimsical world and help keep street theatre alive!” And bear in mind that this is where the world-class Cirque du Soleil shows began.

There is plenty to see and do in the Old Upper Town. The narrow streets leading to Château Frontenac and Terrasse Dufferin are oozing with old-world charm. Along Rue Saint-Louis and Rue Sainte-Anne are numerous restaurants and boutiques selling local ware. Rue du Trésor is known as the “Artists’ Street” for it is where artists display their work on the walls along the narrow street. It is almost like an outdoor art gallery. On the sidewalks, one can also sit for a charcoal or watercolour portrait.

At one corner of Rue Sainte-Anne is the Holy Trinity Cathedral, the first Anglican cathedral built outside the British Isles. I’ve always passed by this church every time we are in town, but I have only gone inside once, since we usually go to Catholic churches. So, one hot, humid afternoon, I decided to check it out since it is open to the public.

From the outside, the grey, rectangular structure built in the British Palladian style looks austere compared to the more elaborate architecture of Catholic cathedrals. Inside, the nave is divided lengthwise into three, giving two side galleries. The interior décor is much simpler than that of Catholic churches but its white pillars, stained glass window behind the altar, and the scrolls that adorn the columns are very elegant. 

I was welcomed by a church volunteer who told me they conduct free tours, but I politely told him that since I didn’t have much time, I would just be staying for a few minutes and would just be looking around. He pointed to the glass case exhibits located on the side aisles of the church containing gifts sent by King George III not long after the church was built – a 10-piece silver communion service, altar candlesticks, chalices, and other items that bear the Arms of the King and of the Diocese of Québec.

In place of the usual religious icons in Catholic churches, I noticed a lot of commemoration plaques displayed in memory of bishops and prominent parishioners. The pews were carved out of oak imported from Windsor Castle’s Royal Forest and in the upper balcony, there was one special pew with the Royal Coat of Arms reserved for the exclusive use of the members or the representatives of the British Royal Family.

As I walked out, I thanked the friendly church volunteer and asked permission to take a photo. Back outside, I noticed the bell tower, which was supposedly one metre higher than the neighbouring Catholic church, the Notré-Dame-de-Québec Basilica. This was a way for the Church of England to assert itself, to counter the monopoly enjoyed by the Roman Catholic Church among the majority of the French-Canadian population and to represent the Church of England in Québec City. The tower is equipped with eight change-ringing bells of exquisite quality and the oldest in the whole of Canada.

In the summer, there is usually an artisan market in the church courtyard where under small tents, they display their wares – ceramics, jewelry, wood carvings, leather goods, paper products, and various decorations and apparel.

Every year, we also come across this marionette puppet show at the courtyard presented by the Théâtre de Guignol called “L’affaire du cochon” (“The Case of the Pig”), said to be a true story that dates back to 1706. My son enjoyed sitting on the grass, ice cream on hand, and watching this French puppet drama unfold as two neighbours present contradictory stories to the court about the case of a pig that was killed and eaten.

Across the street is Place D’Armes, once a military parade ground, but now a favourite spot for hanging out under the shade of the trees and people-watching while eating a snack. In the centre is the Monument of Faith with a fountain feature. Around this spot, I would always see this costumed guy and his balloon cart. He makes animal-shaped balloons, and his dynamic personality and flamboyant performance always draws kids around him.

Along Rue Fort is the Musée du Fort, a small museum that features a unique light and sound show on the military history of Québec City played out on an impressive 400-foot square diorama that lights up in the middle of a dim mini-theatre. For history buffs, the boutique sells historical books on Québec in both English and French, military-themed souvenirs, such as plastic soldiers and wooden muskets, and collectible items, such as metal figurines and sets of soldiers. I must admit we have never seen it because the first few times, I didn’t even know there was a museum in that building. Its storefront is occupied by Le Chic Shack, a Québec-style diner that offers the usual burger and shake fare but with a French twist, as they also have poutine, game meat, lobster, and cider wine on the menu. I guess I am very easily distracted by food.

Further down the road is the Roman Archdiocese complex where one can find the Notré-Dame-de-Québec Basilica, the first parish church of New France and the very first Catholic parish in North America established in 1664. It acquired Basilica status in 1674 and became the seat of the huge Diocese of Québec. 

Built on the site of the first chapel constructed by Samuel de Champlain, the church has been rebuilt several times after being destroyed by fires and bombardments throughout the centuries. The present church boasts of many architectural features and decorations executed by various renowned architects and artists of the province, including the baldaquin (the gold-leaf canopy overhanging the choir and supported by sculpted angels, the main altar, and the bishop’s throne) in its golden splendour.

Apart from the grandiose interior, the church also has magnificent stained-glass windows imported from Munich and Paris, three organs from the House of Casavant, and a sanctuary lamp that was a gift from King Louis XIV.

And aside from being a place of worship, it has also become a place of rest.  In 1990, a funerary chapel was added for the remains of Monseigneur François de Laval, the founding father of the Catholic Church in Canada, beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1980. Upon his tomb is a recumbent statue in bronze inspired by those of the Middle Ages. There is also a crypt below that houses more than 900 tombs, including those of former bishops, archbishops, and cardinals of Québec, as well as 4 governors of New France.

This church is a regular stop for all of our visits here, but perhaps, the most memorable was the summer of 2014 when I brought my late aunt here (please see the “East Coast Pilgrimage” series). She was visiting from the Philippines and though this was not her first time in Canada, it was her first time in the Québec, for she would usually go to Vancouver to visit my other aunt who lives there.

I was excited to show my aunt around. I thought she would enjoy the old churches and shrines in the East Coast because she was a very religious person. In the West Coast, one does not find a lot of these European-style churches.

On the year of her visit, it so happened that the Basilica was celebrating its 350^th anniversary and as part of its anniversary, the Holy See granted the oldest church in North America with the exceptional gift of a Holy Door, the 7^th in the world, and the 1^st outside Europe (four are in the Major Basilicas in Rome – Saint Peter, Saint Mary Major, Saint Paul, and Saint John Lateran; one is at Santiago de Compostela in Spain, and one in Ars, France).

The Holy Door is an actual door, a massive bronze one embossed with the Risen Christ in the front, and of the Blessed Mother at the back, depicted as praying with parishioners with the Holy Spirit hovering above them. Passing through this door signifies a spiritual transition and is a symbol of a path leading to conversion and blessings.

Based on a tradition dating back to 1423, Holy Doors are normally sealed by mortar and cement from the inside so that they can only be opened during special jubilee celebrations, about once every 25 years. During the jubilee year, it is possible to gain a special indulgence when a pilgrim, immediately following passage through the Holy Door, go to Confession, attend Mass, or make a profession of faith. Québec City’s was exceptionally opened in 2013-2014 for the 350th anniversary celebrations and recently reopened following a declaration from Pope Francis that current international events called for an extraordinary year of mercy. It was a special privilege indeed for my aunt and my family to do this pilgrimage that time.

Within the church compound is a seminary, the Séminaire du Québec, founded in 1663 by Bishop Laval, which has since grown into part of the Université Laval. In the summer, tours are conducted here, where one will see lavish decorations of stone, tile, and brass within the seminary buildings. At one point, there was even an exhibit of gilt-framed oil paintings collected by the seminary throughout its 350 years of existence, but I am not sure if this is still available to the public at present.

As one exits the parking lot across Rue Port Dauphin then on to Rue Côté de la Montagne, one can see that the streets are lined with cannons next to the rampart walls overlooking the St. Lawrence River and the Lower Town, as well as bronze statues of notable French-Canadian settlers. Behind is Montmorency Park National Historic Site, an urban park that used to be a cemetery and then the seat of civil and religious power during the war. It’s a beautiful place to just sit and relax from a full day of walking, enjoy the breeze, and take in the views.

If you walk in the opposite direction toward Rue de Buade, you will find a plethora of boutiques, restaurants, and souvenir shops. Our favourite on this street is the La Boutique de Noël de Québec, a year-round Christmas store that sells everything Christmas from tree ornaments to Santa Claus figurines to old-fashioned Yuletide toys. The festive Christmas atmosphere is always attractive to kids and the kids-at-heart like us.

Wandering around the narrow cobblestone streets and alleys of the Old Upper Town will take you to little pockets of charming 17^th and 18^th-century houses, with a few of them transformed into hostels, shops, and cafés, as well as soaring church spires, austere chapels and convents, manicured squares, and roundabouts with interesting artwork and sculptures.