On the Foothills of Mount Baker

On our most recent trip to the West Coast, my cousin and I had planned on going south and crossing the border into Washington State, just to add some variety to our Vancouver visit. We had thought of going to Seattle for sightseeing, dining, and (window)shopping.

Though I had gone to the Pacific Northwest of the United States (Portland, Oregon for a short pilgrimage with my aunt, and then Redmond, Washington for a week-long training for work) in the past, I had never really stopped in Seattle. I told my cousin that I was interested to go to Pike Place to see the famous fish mongers and to feast on some seafood.

My husband got excited and chipped in. According to him, a visit to Washington would not be complete without seeing at least one mountain. How could we pass up the opportunity to see the state’s “Signature Six” – Mount Rainier, Mount Adams, Mount Baker, Mount St. Helen’s, Mount Olympus, and Mount Si? The closest would be Mount Baker, located on the very northern end of Washington’s Cascade range, so close to Canada.

After some planning with my cousin and her husband, who happens to be my husband’s best friend, we decided on staying there for a couple of days to make everyone happy – the first day in the mountains for some nature fun, and another day for an urban outing.

We left B.C. in the late morning to give my night owl husband and the kids some time to sleep since we were out on a local outing the day before and came home late. We got on two vehicles – my cousin, her husband and two girls on their family van, and myself, my husband, and our son in our rented car (a luxury car for the price of a regular car, courtesy of a cousin of a cousin who is a manager at a car rental company).

Since they lived in Abbotsford, it didn’t take us long to reach the border. We chose to go via the Sumas-Huntingdon border, which, as the name suggests, is located between Sumas, Washington and the town of Huntingdon in Abbotsford on the Canadian side.

The traffic was not so bad, and we made it to the other side in less than 30 minutes.

From there, we drove south on Highway 547, then east on Highway 542, otherwise known as Mount Baker Highway, towards Glacier. This highway is considered both a state scenic highway and a national forest scenic byway.

Our destination was the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. This park extends more than 230 kilometers along the western slopes of the Cascade Range from the U.S.-Canada border to the northern boundary of Mount Rainier National Park. Administered by the U.S. Forest Service, it has several ranger district offices spread across northern Washington.

The one we were planning to visit was the local ranger office in Glacier, a small hamlet that was originally a logging and mining community, but is now popular for river rafting, hiking, skiing, and snowboarding.

We knew that we were approaching the town when the farmland and farmhouses were replaced by log cabins advertised as either lodging houses or ski shops.

At the Glacier Ranger Station, housed in a historic structure built in the typical Cascadian architecture (simple, rustic, but with a dominant roof, a stone base, rough-hewn timbers, heavy planks, and maximized windows), I felt at home right away.

I noticed that the houses in this area are bereft of glamour, elaborate features, or loud colours. I guess that on a practical sense, the people there have adapted their dwellings to the region’s climate and conditions – frequent and intense snow and rain and the still evolving landscape due to seismic activity, active volcanoes, glaciers, and tidal surges. But on a deeper sense, I guess they know that their natural environment of majestic mountains is enough, and that they cannot compete with Mother Nature’s beauty and charm.

We talked to the rangers on duty, who were very helpful, got some information about which hiking trails and lookouts were suitable for young children, and took some maps and brochures.

Inside the facility, you can also find a small exhibit with blown-up maps, pictures, graphs, information boards, and a scale model of the Cascades. There is also a small gift shop that sells books, traveler’s maps, souvenir items, and of course, the required recreational passes.

The rangers informed us that this is the last facility along the highway with public restrooms equipped with flushing toilets, and the last place where you could fill your water bottles. So, we made sure we emptied our bladders and replenished our water supply (although we have two huge packs of bottled water in the trunk).

We continued driving along Mount Baker Highway as it gradually ascended up and wounded its way around the mountains. This drive is packed with the most breathtaking scenery, as well as heart-stopping turns. I tried my best not to look down the ravine as my husband navigated the two-lane zigzag road.

This road takes you up as far as the Mount Baker Ski Area at more than 5,100 feet, where you can enjoy views of the river valley and the peaks of the North Cascade Mountain range. Beyond this, there is a small road open only during the summer months. This is where Heather Meadows and the Visitor Center are located. We heard that this is the place for the best mountain vistas and the most scenic hikes. As we were there in August, we took advantage of this opportunity and went up as far as we could.

But before that, we made a short, but sweet stop at Picture Lake, aptly named because it is said to be one of most photographed mountain scenes in North America. The crystal-clear glacial waters of the lake reflect the image of nearby Mount Shuksan’s snow-capped peak.

Around the lake is a short, paved loop trail that is easy enough for children and dog walkers, and flat enough for young families with strollers. At the edge of the lake is a wooden platform with a viewing scope. It was a beautiful path lined with colourful foliage and bright wildflowers against the dramatic backdrop of the mountain.

I could see why this is popular amongst photographers, and I imagine, painters as well. The majestic Mount Shuksan is perfectly mirrored in the waters. If not for people milling around (there were only two other families with us that afternoon), you could almost feel that you are actually inside a painting or a professionally-taken, calendar-pretty photograph. We were mesmerized by its beauty. This would be even more spectacular at sunrise or sunset, with the glowing sun peeking from behind the mountain, its faint glow glistening on the surface of the lake. So beautiful!

Next, we headed to the Heather Meadows Visitor Centre at the very end of the highway. It is housed in a historic building that now features a small exhibit on the area’s cultural history and natural environment. Beside it is the highest viewing spot.

As expected, we were treated to the most magnificent alpine scenery – sweeping meadows dotted with heather (of course) and huckleberry, glistening lakes nestled between knolls, ridges bristled with hemlocks, rock columns, and the volcanic peak of Mount Baker itself.

Right across was a huge sign board with a map of the hiking trails. These trails are only open during the summer season when the winter snow has melted. Otherwise, during the winter months, this is a paradise for skiing and snowboarding. The trails were marked according to level of difficulty.

Since we were with our school-aged children, we naturally chose an easy trail. The Fire and Ice Trail is a half-mile loop trail that is family-friendly and has a trailhead that starts right in front of the Visitor Centre. It is located in the valley between Mount Herman and Table Mountain and is relatively flat and lined with diminutive mountain hemlocks and interpretative signs that explain how this landscape was shaped by melting glaciers and volcanic eruptions.

And because the kids still had a lot of energy doing the loop, we tackled the downhill pathway that goes to the junction of the Bagley Lakes Trail and the Chain Lakes Trail.

The Bagley Lakes Trail is an easy single-track trail that takes hikers to two sparkling alpine lakes – the Upper Bagley and the Lower Bagley - and a picturesque creek in-between with a mountain backdrop and a carpet of wildflowers along the way.

This trail is usually accessed through an entrance tucked away along the highway, immediately after the Picture Lake trailhead. From there, you will walk about 60 feet to Lower Bagley Lake at the foot of Mount Herman then follow the path that runs along the east side of the lake. Upon reaching the upper end, it turns into a bubbling creek that runs along for about a quarter mile until it opens up again into the Upper Bagley Lake whose northwestern shore you will thread. At some point, you will come upon a double –arched stone bridge, some stone walls, and a snowfield, and from this vantage point, you can get a good view of Table Mountain.

This section meets the Chain Lakes Trail that runs along the opposite side of Upper Bagley Lake. One can choose to take this path, which is classified as an intermediate trail and involves crossing some rocks and streams to complete a loop back to the parking lot, or walk back the same way along the Bagley Lakes Trail.

However, there is another option to get to this junction. From the Visitor Centre, going right from the Fire and Ice Trail, there is a rock face that goes downhill. My husband and kids enjoyed this, but my cousin and I took advantage of the built-in stairs, also made of rocks. About 100 yards into this trail, which is officially a portion of the Chain Lakes Trail, we stumbled upon a small pond with waters so clear that you can see a reflection of Table Mountain. As we continued down, the Upper Bagley Lakes came into view until we hit a double-arched footbridge. This is the junction. If you go east, you will walk along the Bagley Lakes Trail. If you go west, you will continue on Chain Lakes Trail.

My husband would have wanted to continue on this trail that goes up to Herman’s Saddle, where Mount Shuksan dominates the horizon behind. Cresting this saddle brings you to the highest point of the hike that provides 360-degree views and facing Mount Baker directly.

Then you go down the other side of the saddle towards Iceberg Lake surrounded by idyllic grassy meadows and heather bushes. From there, you will stumble upon the Mazama Lakes camping grounds, and another ascent begins towards Ptarmigan Ridge. There is another trail that forks from here (Ptarmigan Ridge Trail) but to finish this loop, you head to Artist Point. This stretch gives you a view of the Swift Creek and Rainbow Valley below.

However, this is an eight-mile hike with some significant elevation gain that might not be suitable for children. “Next time,” we said. Instead, we climbed back up on the rock face to return to the Visitor Centre.

The Artist Point is at the very end of the Mount Baker Highway, which we didn’t get to drive to because the roads were not accessible at the time of our visit. We were a bit disappointed because we heard that the views from there are even more stunning – the pyramid summit of Mount Shuksan, gorgeous Mount Baker, several impressive glaciers, the sweeping views of the valley, and even the peaks of the mountains that are part of the adjacent North Cascades National Park. In the winter, it becomes a popular place for skiing and snowshoeing.

The only way to get there was via another hiking trail – The Artist Ridge Trail. Shaped like a lollipop, with one way in and out and a loop at the end, this is another beautiful path rich in patches of heather, mountain blueberries, and the occasional mountain goats. A paved section leads to an overlook with benches and spotting scopes with an expansive view of the mountains that stretch from Mount Rainier all the way to Canada, dominated by Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan. Again, my husband was disappointed for not being able to do this. Once more, we said, “Next time!”

By the time we got back to our starting point, we could tell that the kids were done. They were hungry and tired from all that walking and climbing. But as a last hurrah, as we were walking back to the parking lot, my husband saw a small snow hill. He took our son running towards it, and my two nieces followed suit, tailgated by their daddy. They ended up at the top. My cousin and I stayed behind to take their photos.

On our drive down the mountain road, my cousin texted that her little girls had fallen asleep. Our son, on the other hand, was wide awake, enjoying the mountain views, and asking too many questions.

We were heading to a small suburb near Seattle where we booked rooms at a small hotel. Halfway down, he announced that he was queasy. I couldn’t blame him, for I myself was a little dizzy from the zigzag roads snaking the mountain as we went downhill. After a few minutes, he asked for a plastic bag and then started throwing up. When he was done, it was as if nothing happened because he reverted back to his usual talkative self.

Then, he asked for a granola bar and a yogurt. I told him that he just vomited and that his tummy might not be able to take food, especially dairy and high-fiber stuff, for now.

Our cheeky son said, “But I am kind of hungry, Mom, and that’s what the vomit bag is for, right? If I start feeling queasy again, I’ll use it. After all, I didn’t make a mess, right, Mommy? And I won’t make a mess the next time either. For now, I will eat, then throw up if I need to, then eat again, then throw up, then eat.”

He said it so matter-of-factly and with such confidence and authority that I started to wonder whether I failed to get a memo on these "perfectly normal standard procedures."

And that’s how I ended up holding the vomit bag the whole time from Mount Baker to Seattle, on call and ready to rescue, which I did one more time when we reached the base of the mountain, and yet another one right before we left the country road.

I told my husband that a mother’s job description certainly includes a long list of interesting tasks. My husband countered with, “Hey, it’s the same for fathers, too. Can't you see how I am trying to focus on a long, winding road while ignoring the sweet scent of freshly spewed granola and yogurt in the air?” So, we opened all our windows until the smell dissipated.

When we arrived at the hotel, my nieces saw me carefully cradling the vomit bag like there’s a ticking bomb inside, while discreetly looking for a garbage bin. One of them asked, “What’s that?” 

And our son proudly responded on my behalf, complete with hand gestures, “That’s the stinky bag. I vomited in the car…THREE TIMES!” 

He said it as if he were the genie bragging about granting Aladdin his three wishes.

The girls responded with a resounding, “Wooooow,” with wide eyes and open mouths.

I wasn’t sure if that meant, “That is yuckies,” or “That is so impressive. You’re the man!” 

You never know with kids…