Île d’Orléans, Island of Enchantment: Saint-Laurent

Île d’Orléans is but a small island on the Saint-Lawrence River about five kilometers east of downtown Québec City, away from the hustle and bustle of urban life and the tourist mob, but its historical and cultural significance cannot be discounted. In fact, diminutive as it is in the whole province of Québec, it is considered the “Birthplace of New France” and the “Cradle of French civilization in North America.”

Île d’Orléans was one of the first parts of the province that was settled by the French. In the 17^th century, more than 300 families came here from north-west France, mostly from the Normandy and Pitou regions, to establish permanent homes in what was then New France. Some have stayed there for centuries, while others have spread out to the mainland. A large percentage of French Canadians can actually trace their ancestry back to the early residents of this island.

But it is even older than that. The island has long been inhabited by Indigenous tribes. In fact, the Huron peoples called it Minigo, meaning “enchanted island.” When French explorer Jacques Cartier first set foot on this land in 1535, he named it Île de Bascuz (Island of Bacchus), after the Greek god of wine, because of the abundance of wild grape vines growing all over the island. When he returned a year later, he renamed it Île d’Orléans in honour of Henri II, Duke of Orléans and the second son of Francis I, the then-King of France.

The first settlers were attracted by the island’s fertile soil and since the early days of colonization, agriculture has been the main livelihood of its people. Known as “The Garden of Québec,” it remains a largely rural place and its current inhabitants have preserved its pastoral heritage, even after the island became more accessible with the completion of the Pont de l’Île in 1935 that connected it to the mainland in Beauport.

And despite the increase in traffic and the influx of visitors, the island has maintained its historical character and traditional way of life. More than 600 of its houses and buildings were classified as heritage property and in 1990, the entire island was designated a National Historic Site of Canada, thus protecting it from commercial development.

Today, Île d’Orléans is a popular destination for day-trippers from Québec City, as well as avid cyclists and hiking enthusiasts. It has also carved its place as the epicentre of Québec’s agri-tourism movement and a culinary haven. Just 15 minutes from Québec City by car, and about 8 kilometers wide and 35 kilometers long, it can easily be explored from a few hours to a full day, depending on the number of stops you choose to make.

A 60-kilometer road called Chemin Royale circles the whole island and three main roads, Rue d’Orléans, Route Prévost, and Route des Prêtre, connect it from north to south near the western tip. You may have heard that Chemin Royale was featured in a 1975 song entitled, “Le Tour de l’Île” composed by Francophone musician and Île d’Orléans-native, Félix Leclerc.

If you travel along the perimeter of the island along this route, you will be treated to its spectacular landscape, from jagged coves and capes to hilly reliefs and small valleys, as well as the stretch of greenery with fields of berries and luscious vineyards, not to mention the gorgeous scenery stretching along the banks of the Saint Lawrence River. No wonder, Sir Felix was inspired by the beauty and had set it to music.

Though I have never heard his song which, for sure, was written in French, I think I could relate with his wistful sentiments. When my family and I drove around the island, we simply fell under its spell – so simple and rustic, yet full of warmth and charm.

From the bridge, we traveled counterclockwise via Chemin Royale. Following this road will give you the opportunity to see all six villages that comprise the island – Sainte-Pétronille, Saint-Laurent, Saint-Jean, Saint-François, Sainte-Famille, and Saint-Pierre.

Saint-Laurent

Saint-Laurent, due to its geographical location at the edge of the Saint Lawrence waterway, developed close ties with the sea. It has been known as the island’s maritime village, and many fishermen, boat builders, and shipyards sprouted from its location along the shipping channel. In the 19^th century, some 15 shipyards were building up to 400 rowboats, coasters, and schooners per year. From 1905 to 1967, the wharf of Saint-Laurent Limitée was active and was responsible for the construction of many of the boats used by the villagers.

Boatbuilding has since declined, but you can learn about the history of the region’s maritime industry by visiting Le Parc Maritime de Saint-Laurent. This former boatyard features the Chalouperie Godbout (longboat), which holds a collection of tools used by craftsmen during the golden era of boatbuilding. There is an interpretation centre that tells the tales of the island’s inhabitants and shipyard workers and an authentic 19^th-century rowboat shop.

 Aside from the exhibits, there is a picnic area and a hiking ground. In the summer, they also hold demonstrations of how to build flat-bottomed schooners. Unfortunately, we did not have enough time to stop by. But we very much enjoyed the view during the drive – the huge ocean liners and the small sailboats making their way along the Saint Lawrence ship channel, and on the horizon, the profile of the Appalachians.

The boating culture is still evident with colourful boats dotting the shorelines and companies situated near the village marina running outdoor adventure tourism businesses that involve the water – canoeing, kayaking, and boat rentals. There is a yachting port and a golf course as well.

A few steps from the marina is the Saint-Laurent Church. It was built in 1860 on the site of an even older 18^th-century church that had to be torn down. This church has a magnificent collection of liturgical objects, furniture, and works of art. But its most-prized treasure is a miniature stone reproduction of the original church displayed in one of its processional chapels. Beside it are a presbytery and a convent which, like the church, are open to the public.

Driving by the village, we noticed traditional Québeçois homes architecturally grouped together and a line-up of art galleries featuring local art, chic boutiques, small shops, quaint inns and cozy restaurants. It’s almost like a tiny artists’ haven.

Most notable is a working forge (blacksmith shop) called La Forge À Pique-Assaut that belongs to a local artisan who has done a lot of iron restoration work in Québec. On some days, you can watch him and his talented team at work creating stylish chandeliers, candlesticks, fireplace tools, and other ironwork.  

Le Moulin de St-Laurent, a restaurant known for its regional cuisine, stands at the foot of a small waterfall. Formerly called Gosselin Mill, an old flour mill that dates back to 1720, it has extended its enterprise by renting out luxury riverfront chalets.  A number of old homes in the village have also been designated as historical monuments, though most of them are not available to the public.

Aside from heritage sites, Saint-Laurent is also famous for its strawberry fields. Up to the 20^th century, Saint-Laurent farmers carried on their agricultural vocation on the plateau and the surrounding hills while the fishermen use the shoreline for their fishing haul and boats.

Unfortunately, because there were several road closures due to construction around the area, we were rerouted to smaller country roads and did not have the time to stop and look around.

Long after this trip, I heard a story about how this village was named. In 1679, after the local parish was founded, the village was named Saint-Paul as it was adjacent to the village of Saint-Pierre (Saint Peter). To the Catholic faithful, it is a frequent practice for the two saints to be twinned (e.g., the parish of Saints Peter and Paul, and the like) as they are both major apostles. In 1698, there was apparently a dispute between the two villages over some religious relics and the relationship turned sour. At the request of François Berthelot, advisor to the King and Count of Saint-Laurent, the parish was renamed Saint-Laurent.

Whether the name change is related to the so-called dispute remains a legend. But apparently, the falling out is also immortalized by a wayside cross built on Route des Prêtes, the small country road bisecting Saint-Laurent and Saint-Pierre. Interesting!