Quintessential Québec City: The Prettiest Shortcut

Québec City will always stand-out from amongst the other big cities in Canada. Its charming quaintness emanates from a blend of North American and European cultures that is not intrinsically and purely North American, but not comprehensively European either. Rather, it has a unique characteristic that embraces the combined heritage of all the peoples that have lived in that land while never losing touch with its French connections. The result is a seamless amalgamation of various elements of culture that gives it its very own distinct identity.

It is not unusual to hear first time visitors say that being in the city is like being in Europe, but after at least half a day, they’d realize that they are very much still in North America. It happened to me.

The first time I set foot in Québec City on a cruise many years back, I felt transported to another continent as our ship docked at the Saint-Lawrence River and I got a glimpse of the old stone houses in the distance. It was nothing like Vancouver or Toronto…and even its sister city, Montréal.

The architecture, the language, the vibe, the air of antiquity, particularly in the Old Town, all scream, “I am ancient and I have a long, colourful story to tell…” Yet, after my encounter with the locals, I knew I was still home. This is still Canada…but the wonderfully whimsical part of Canada. And I never get tired of exploring it every time I go back.

Our 2017 visit to Québec City was the longest one, out of our other trips. That time, we stayed for five days to watch the parade and enjoy the festivities of Les Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France (The New France Festival). We spent a lot of time wandering around and getting to know its neighbourhoods a little better.

In 2018, we went back to accompany our son when he participated in a national chess tournament. We stayed for four days. In between matches and after the last match of each day, we’d go for walks and sightseeing.

This series will be about the neighbourhoods that we explored.

Rue Sainte-Ursule

Another small street that I had come to know well during the four days that I traversed Grande Allée and Rue Saint-Louis from our hotel to the Old Town twice a day was Rue Sainte-Ursule.

After I discovered this street, I used it as my daily shortcut to go to Rue Saint-Jean. And it’s the prettiest shortcut! Instead of busy shops and restaurants, it is mostly lined with quaint hostels and bed and breakfast establishments housed in renovated and modernized stone homes. I made a mental note to consider these charming and homier accommodations the next time we visit the city. 

The walk along Rue Sainte-Ursule was quieter and more relaxing, as there is less tourist traffic. Visitors pass this street only when leaving or going back to their accommodations, or dining at one of the small restaurants within the hostels.

The only challenge was its steepness. As you approach the intersection with Rue Sainte-Anne towards Rue Saint-Louis, the road goes downhill in an almost 90-degree angle, at least, from my perception. I think it was the walk through here that wrecked my gladiator sandals.

There was one restaurant along this street that caught my eye, though. I even brought my husband along one afternoon so he could see the menu. We had made plans to dine here, but we never had the chance.

The restaurant is called, Le Saint-Amour. It was inconspicuously tucked away between similar buildings with only a black awning over an arched doorway and a couple of planters laden with summer blooms hanging from the windows that differentiate it from the rest.

It has been an icon in Québec’s culinary scene since 1978 and not much has changed since then in terms of décor. Its menu evolves with the season, but it has staples like the classic Québec terrine, seared foie gras, duck confit, piglet loin, bouillabaisse, cassoulet, and local cheeses. It also boasts of a large cellar with a fine selection of wines to accompany an elegant meal.

Apparently, it has attracted the patronage of several notable celebrities who dined here when they visited the city – Sir Paul McCartney, Sting, Alicia Keys, One Republic, and others. It has also earned several recognitions and culinary awards, and its chef and owner regularly shares his knowledge and passion through a local cooking TV show. I guess this is one more reason to go back to Québec City.