Quintessential Québec City: Old Lower Town

Québec City will always stand-out from amongst the other big cities in Canada. Its charming quaintness emanates from a blend of North American and European cultures that is not intrinsically and purely North American, but not comprehensively European either. Rather, it has a unique characteristic that embraces the combined heritage of all the peoples that have lived in that land while never losing touch with its French connections. The result is a seamless amalgamation of various elements of culture that gives it its very own distinct identity.

It is not unusual to hear first time visitors say that being in the city is like being in Europe, but after at least half a day, they’d realize that they are very much still in North America. It happened to me.

The first time I set foot in Québec City on a cruise many years back, I felt transported to another continent as our ship docked at the Saint-Lawrence River and I got a glimpse of the old stone houses in the distance. It was nothing like Vancouver or Toronto…and even its sister city, Montréal.

The architecture, the language, the vibe, the air of antiquity, particularly in the Old Town, all scream, “I am ancient and I have a long, colourful story to tell…” Yet, after my encounter with the locals, I knew I was still home. This is still Canada…but the wonderfully whimsical part of Canada. And I never get tired of exploring it every time I go back.

Our 2017 visit to Québec City was the longest one, out of our other trips. That time, we stayed for five days to watch the parade and enjoy the festivities of Les Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France (The New France Festival). We spent a lot of time wandering around and getting to know its neighbourhoods a little better.

In 2018, we went back to accompany our son when he participated in a national chess tournament. We stayed for four days. In between matches and after the last match of each day, we’d go for walks and sightseeing.

This series will be about the neighbourhoods that we explored.

Old Lower Town

The Old Lower Town (or Basse Ville) is where the original settlement was located and is known for its picturesque streets and historic stone buildings. It was here where Samuel de Champlain chose to erect his “Abitation” which served as a fort, a storehouse, a trading post, and his residence. To reach it, one can simply walk through the narrow, winding streets that connect the Upper Town to the Lower Town, or one can take the stairs or the funicular.

The stairs, named Escalier casse-cou in French literally translates to “Breakneck Stairs” in English. The wooden stairway, built in 1635, is the oldest in Québec City and was given its current name in the 19^th century due to its steepness. The original wooden stairway has since been replaced by a more solid, three-ramp iron structure, but the steepness of the hill remains the same. 

I’ve tried it once, and ascending too (what was I thinking?)…and trust me, the name speaks for itself. I was out-of-breath by the time I reached the top. It is reassuring to know that according to the archives, there has been no death or serious injury attributed to the path despite the heavy traffic since the 19^th century. In fact, the real menace here was the young rascals who hurtled down at breakneck speed in their horse carts posing public danger to pedestrians in the 17^th century.  I heard there are several other staircases on the hill, and it has even been claimed that because of them, Québec women can boast of having the shapeliest calves in the world.  But I say, “No, thank you.” After the first one, I don’t think I’d ever be interested.

The more relaxing option would be to take the funicular, which is itself a tourist attraction. This dual-car railroad was built in 1879 and runs at a 45-degree angle. It can be accessed from the Upper Town at Terrasse Dufferin, while the Lower Town terminus is located in the historic house of the famous explorer and fur trader Louis Jolliet, whose statue proudly stands beside it. The two-minute ride offers a commanding view of Lower Town and the river. It is well worth the $3 cost.

Down below, you will certainly feel like you have travelled back in time. As you get off the funicular, you will find yourself on Rue du Petit-Champlain, one of the oldest commercial streets in North America. It is a post-card perfect pedestrian street lined with colourful mansard-roofed stone houses that now serve as restaurants, bistros, museums, art galleries, and one-of-a-kind boutiques.

It is hard to imagine that this area used to be the slums of Québec. Now, the former humble homes of fishermen and stevedores are quaintly decorated with brightly painted signs and through the glass windows, you can see an array of artisanal products from local merchants and craftsmen. There is something for everyone’s taste here, from fashionable clothes, handmade shoes, and fine jewelry to ceramic art, woodwork, paintings, and leather goods. And for your gastronomic cravings, there are shops that offer sweet indulgences such as chocolates, fudge bars, pastries, and ice cream. There are also specialty food stores that feature regional specialties such as maple syrup products and cider.

Several restaurants with interesting cuisine also dot the street with two of them piquing our curiosity – Le Lapin Sauté with a façade décor reminiscent of a “Peter Rabbit” book cover, and Cochon Dingue Champlain with a cute, little piggy statue peeking through the glass window from the façade.

The first one’s specialty is rabbits, served crystallized, in pies or with delicious sauces. But the restaurant is also known for its wonderful duck, lamb, and salmon dishes, as well as its sandwiches au gratin with local cheese, and its maple crème brulée. The second one claims to be a 100% Québecois restaurant with a Parisian bistro flair and offers French staples such as beef bourguignon, salmon tartare, poutine, French onion soup, pork rouleaux, and the like on their menu. I heard they are known for their brunch with items such as French toasts, French crèpes, duck omelet, and Croque Monsieur. We never got to eat at either place because of a combination of wrong timing, unavailability of tables, and long line-ups.

We did have a wonderful French dinner at Le Repaire, which we stumbled upon one stormy night.  We were drenched from the sudden outburst of rain and were looking for the closest place to take shelter and dine. We happened to be at one end of the street by the stairs. My husband, who normally takes his time to canvass restaurants before deciding where to eat, took a quick look at the menu displayed outside, thought it looked great, and asked if they had a table available. We were in luck and got a cozy, corner table inside.

The first thing I noticed were the stone walls and ceilings which our server declared as all original and in fact, part of the city’s fortifications. The next thing I noticed was the menu that was full of interesting regional cuisine accentuated by local produce – game meats, cured meats, tartares, fine cheeses, tourtières, poutine, and duck dishes. I ordered their duck leg confit with blueberry gastrique juice, seasonal vegetables, and potatoes à la salardaise, which was really superb. My husband enjoyed his deer medallion meal with roasted potatoes, and my son, his very juicy burger and very crispy fries. The food more than made up for the crappy weather we had that night.

But the charm of the street does not end there. Rue du Petit-Champlain is a part of the bigger Petit Champlain Quarter that also encompasses Sous-le-Fort, rue Cul-de-Sac, the Champlain Market, and a portion of Rue Notré Dame and Champlain Boulevard, all of which feature establishments that offer unique and exclusive products. The district stays decorated and illuminated the whole year long.

In the summer months, the streets are vibrant with colourful blooms and in the winter, it is aglow with fairy lights and lanterns. Rue Cul-de-Sac is known for its walkway full of red, yellow, and black umbrellas that seem to float magically above the street, a perfect spot for a pictorial. It is also often referred to as the "Umbrella Alley, " but during our last visit, I recall that instead of umbrellas, they had red, yellow, and white round lanterns that looked like glowing balloons. In the olden days, it was the site of the Champlain Market housed in a large stone building that rivalled that of neighbouring Place -Royale.

Right beside the rabbit restaurant is the Parc Félix-Leclerc festooned with lanterns, swings, and Adirondack chairs, where one can take a break from walking and listen to musicians serenading visitors for a few coins.

Not far from the park is the Theatre Petit Champlain, which has hosted hundreds of theatre productions since its opening in the 19^th century and at present has also embraced musical performances and comedy acts by local artists.

For the more daring ones, there is the “Ghost Tours of Québec” where for 90-minutes, you will be enthralled by costumed guides holding their lanterns with 400-year-old stories of murders, executions, ghost sightings, and hauntings as you walk along the cobblestone streets and ancient buildings of the Old Town.

My husband is not into this ghost business. But we had something more exciting during this visit that coincided with the Les Fêtes de la nouvelle France.

This festival is held yearly since 1997 to preserve the historic legacy of Québec City as a French colony and to showcase 17^th and 18^th century America. We were in for a treat because this celebration was characterized by both cultural entertainment and humour. For five days, the city was alive with parades, musical shows, reenactments, street entertainment, family games, lectures, and gastronomic adventures.

The festival was kicked off by a spectacular opening parade on the first day, which started at Rue Concorde then marched through Grand Allée, entered the Old Town through Porte Saint-Jean, continued on along Rue Saint-Jean, and ended at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. We missed the parade by a few minutes because we left Ottawa late, had to look for a gas station in downtown Québec after arriving late, took a wrong turn, got rerouted, and upon arrival in the Old Town, drove around in circles to find parking.

We headed straight to Place-Royale, the town square, where we caught the end tail of the parade and saw the revelers conglomerating. There were still folks walking around in costumes – peasants in their quilted bonnets and tricorn hats; the bourgeoisie in more sophisticated clothing characterized by embroidered gowns and feathered hats; and the nobles in their brocaded silks, braided wigs, and sparkly jewelry.

We even saw some men carrying some “giants,” the literal big stars of the parade. These are large paper maché marionettes representing historical characters like “The Champlain Giant” whose cartography-inspired skirt represents Champlain’s maps, “Marie-Victoire” representing all women of New France, and “Captain Valiant” who is the embodiment of the explorers of New France. We spent our time taking pictures with the costumed participants and checking out the wooden stalls manned by costumed artisans in full 17^th and 18^th-century character selling their wares. The stalls and the signs were designed to look like they were from the olden days, and some stalls were even selling old-fashioned goods.

Place-Royale has always been the spot where the most exciting events take place. Nicknamed, “The Cradle of French Civilization in North America,” it extends from where Samuel de Champlain first built his settlement and was the centre of trade in those days.

The city’s wealthiest merchants lived here, and shops were built to facilitate the fur trade between the settlers and the Indigenous Peoples. It was then called, Place du Marché (Commercial Square). This was also the place where the town crier made announcements and where municipal ordinances were posted. After the fire in 1682, the buildings were rebuilt in stone, and in 1686, the bust of King Louis XIV, the Sun King, was erected. And this is how it came to be called Place-Royale.

During the Les Fêtes de la nouvelle France week, we had a fantastic time hanging out at this square. Aside from the costumed revelers eager to pose for pictures with tourists, there was a lot of music and merry making. I remember one afternoon when we stumbled upon an impromptu dance party. A band playing 18^th-century music with 18^th-century instruments parked themselves at the patio of Pub L’Oncle Antoine. The tunes were so lively that soon after, a crowd gathered outside to listen and clap to the beat of the music. Then a few costumed people started dancing among themselves and afterwards pulled random people from the audience to join them. Soon after, the entire square turned into a big dance floor with people from 18^th-century attire twirling with tourists in shorts and summer shirts. It was a blast.

This square had undergone many changes over the years, from being the main commercial centre and prestigious residential address during the French regime, to severe damage during the siege of Québec, to a revitalization after the city was captured by the British, and then a period of poverty at the turn of the 20^th century.

Today, Place-Royale has been restored to its former glory, with part of it reminiscent of New France as reflected by the stone structures on the riverside, and part of it showcasing British influences as seen from the use of brick on the buildings standing on the cliff side.

The most recognizable structure on the square is the pretty stone church of Notre-Dame -des -Victoires (Our Lady of Victory), the most authentic building from the French Regime despite the many transformations that have marked its history. Dating from 1688 and built on the spot where Samuel de Champlain set up his settlement, it is North America’s oldest stone church. It was named after the French victories over the British in 1690 and 1711, an almost-miracle attributed to the fervent prayers of the parishioners to Our Lady.

This humble place of worship, established as a satellite of the Upper Town cathedral to minister to the Lower Town faithful, was characteristic of the colonial churches with its unpretentious and somber style compared to the ornate ones in France. It has also withstood the test of time. Over the years, the parishioners fought for its survival against the merchants who filed lawsuits during and after its construction and rallied for its demolition because they believed that the church was depriving them of space for business.

In 1929 it was classified a historical monument by a newly created commission for the Province of Québec, making Notre-Dame-des-Victoires among the first three historical buildings to be preserved for posterity. From that day forward, the church did not have to fear for its future. It was renovated again in the 1970s when extensive work was done on Place-Royale.

Of course, I took my late aunt there during her visit in 2014. The present church still closely resembles its older 18^th century self even though the plaster that once covered the walls is gone, the alcoves housing statues on the facade of the church have been replaced by windows, and the belfry has been moved closer to the front of the church. But inside, the original tabernacle of the chapel of Sainte-Geneviève remains. Period painting has also been brought back, the most notable of which is the one depicting the miraculous deliverance of the ship L’Aimable Marthe, a gift in 1747 in gratitude to the Virgin Mary.

Also hanging from the ceiling is a replica of the 17th-century vessel Le Brézé, which was recovered from the ruins of Notre-Dame-de-Québec Basilica in 1759. It was thought to be a good luck charm for ocean crossings and for battles against the Iroquois in those days.

But what’s etched in my memory was the life-sized figure of Jesus Christ just taken down from the cross. The white statue, lain down in a glass encase with fresh wounds from the crucifixion on display, exuded both pain and peace on its face. And before it, I found my then five-year-old son sitting solemnly and staring at Jesus’ face. When I approached him and asked how’s he was doing, he simply said, “I am praying, Mommy. Look at Jesus. I am feeling so sad.” And he stayed there for a good five minutes. I took a picture of him when he was not looking.

Apart from this beautiful church, we have a few more favourite spots in Place-Royale. Festival or no festival, my husband never fails to visit Geomania. It’s an iconic gem store in the area that offers a large selection of precious and semi-precious stones from the Québec region, and according to them, national and international gems that you won’t find anywhere else. They also carry the finest collection of ammolite, a rare and valuable gemstone found exclusively in Alberta. A few steps away is the Musée de Jade nestled in the vault of an 18^th century building with its extensive collection of jade from all over the world. But its workshop is famous for products that feature Canadian jade from Québec.

And if my husband spent too much time at the gem stores, I would cross the street to check out a boutique and an art gallery. Boutique Métiers d’art du Québec has amazing ornamental objects, original fashion accessories, fun gift items, and unique kitchen gadgets. Galerie Dugal et Perrier has a beautiful collection of furniture, sculptures, jewelry, and art objects, all made by internationally famous Québec artists, such as Jean-François Dugal known for his rocking chairs and Brigitte Perrier known for her exclusive jewelry.

I find Québec art to be very distinctly quirky but classy. And as on the Rue du Petit-Champlain, Place-Royale also teems with shops and restaurants that highlight what Québec artisans, craftsmen, and chefs have to offer.

Near the intersection of Rue Notre-Dame and Rue du Porche is a giant Fresque des Québécois mural that recounts the story of Québec City and pays homage to historical figures, authors, artists, and athletes. The whimsical painting was completed in 1998 by a group of artists from Québec and Lyon. It blends so well with the surroundings that from a distance, you’d think this was a real three-dimensional structure. This is another popular spot for tourists to take pictures.

In front of it is Parc de la Cètiere, a small park with a few benches overlooking some excavated ruins that comes alive during festivals. I remember they built an 18^th-century market here during the Les Fêtes de la nouvelle France, where tents were set up with tools and props, and costumed craftsmen demonstrated the various trades of those times such as weaving, sash-making, blacksmithing, and the like.

Across the street were at least four more art galleries, including one that featured Inuit works. There is never a lack of art in this city! And in fact, if one crosses Côté de la Montagne and trudges along Rue du Sault-au-Matelot, one finds a proliferation of more art galleries. If you head west to the Old Port area, you will discover more charming streets with antique stores, sidewalk cafés, and specialty stores.