Quaint Quebec City

Since it was my first time in Quebec City, we chose a shore excursion that focused on Old Québec, the historic city within the fortified walls, as opposed to other day tours that took would take you to the outskirts of the Old Town.

When we docked at 7:00 am that day, the first thing I noticed was the imposing silhouette of the Chateau Frontenac, the most recognizable landmark of this city. After a hearty and relaxing brunch, we disembarked to join the tour that would introduce us to the European charm and character of the first French city in North America.

I thought Montreal is French, but setting foot in Quebec City made it pale in comparison. The city has a 400-year-old French legacy that is evident in its architecture, culture, and general atmosphere. I did not expect it to look as quaint as any European city I pictured in my mind. My husband said that we may have skipped Europe this time, but in Quebec, I would get a glimpse of what it is like.

We went on a panoramic tour around Old Québec by bus, then explored the streets on foot in approximately two and a half hours, covering the neighbourhoods of Parliament Hill, the Old Port, the areas inside the city walls, and Petit-Champlain. We were given some spare time to independently peruse shops and try some local cuisine. Our bus would pick us up later that afternoon. Admittedly, this was not a lot of time, but it was good enough for an introductory visit.

Our tour ended in the heart of the Lower Town – at Place Royale, the magnificently preserved market square surrounded by beautifully restored 17th and 18th-century stone buildings, and from which narrow cobblestone streets fan out. This is the precise location where Samuel de Champlain built the first permanent French settlement in the Americas in 1608, making it the spot where the City of Quebec was founded.

There, we visited the oldest standing Catholic church in North America, the Notre Dame des Victoires, named after the French victory against the British in the 1690 Battle of Quebec. It was small, but charming. Inside, there is a small replica of the ship Le Brézé that was rescued from the ruins of the Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral in 1759.

Across the church, my husband found his happy place in a jewelry store with a decent gem and minerals collection. While he examined rocks, gemstones, and mineral ores, I took pictures of the bust of Louis XIV, the reigning king when New France was founded, against the backdrop of the colourful historic buildings. Then, I stumbled upon an art gallery that featured the works of local painters and artisans. Beside it is a huge mural that illustrates the history of Quebec and depicts a number of its key players from different periods. The detailed realism of the fresco is absolutely riveting and deceiving that if you strategically stand at a certain spot at the right angle and strike a pose, you’d appear to be part of the gigantic picture. 

We wandered along the main street of Petit-UChamplain, the city’s oldest commercial district. It was so pretty. Lined with two- and three-storey plastered stone homes with dormer windows, gabled roofs, large chimneys and firewalls rising above the rooftops, the street was straight out of a fairytale. It made me feel like I was somewhere in France, and not in Canada.

The old buildings have been turned into boutiques and restaurants and we happily hopped from one shop to another, admiring local arts and crafts, from boots and moccasins, to glasswork, stone sculptures, and jewelry. We bought five cheese plates with matching knives in a colourful mosaic pattern at a store that specializes in glass and ceramic art to take home as presents. We also sampled local treats, such as rich chocolates, decadent fudge bars, sweet maple syrup, delicious cheeses, fruit jams, pates, terrines, apple ciders, and other local delights.

We found colourful umbrellas hanging above Umbrella Alley, between the historic buildings bordering Cul-de-Sac Street. This was, of course, a perfect backdrop for a magical pictorial. The vibrant umbrellas appeared to be floating and they blended well with the façades of the old buildings. The sun peeked through these canvasses and painted the ground with tinted shadows. I imagined a dozen Mary Poppin figures descending from the clouds, each taking an umbrella before landing and saying, “Bonjour!”

My husband expressed his admiration for my imagination, but reminded me that Mary Poppins is English and she typically lands in London. “Oh well, she must have some French cousins,” I said.

The funicular was nearby, so we bought a ticket to go to the Upper Town. Perched on a hill, it has a commanding view of the St. Lawrence River. We walked along the Dufferin Terrace boardwalk while enjoying the tranquility of the water as boats calmly glided by.

In front of the Samuel de Champlain Monument, we joined the flock of tourists cheering on a couple of street performers doing some stunts with their unicycles before checking out the interior Chateau Frontenac. We had enough time to sit down for coffee, then it was time to board our bus.

Our drive took us pass the St. Louis Gate, then to the National Battlefields Park, also known as the Plains of Abraham. This park was the historic battle site where the French surrendered to the British in 1759. It is now a beautiful 250-acre park with hills, gardens, monuments, and artillery artifacts displayed in the Martello Towers.

We were taken next to The Citadel, a fortress on top of Cap Diamant, adjoining the Plains of Abraham, that was built by the British to protect the city from invaders. It is the oldest military building in Canada.

 Our guide gave us a brief account of the battles and their outcomes throughout the history of this province, and made a joke that he changes his version of the story, depending on the audience – the Canadian Anglophones, Canadian Francophones, and tourists. I had guessed we got the third version, since majority of the excursion participants were Americans. My husband just said that the story is far more complicated than what the guide told us.

On our way back to the ship, we passed by the trendy Grand Allée, the Champs-Elysées of Quebec, lined with quaint shops, sidewalk cafés, and boutiques. then made a short photo stop in front of the Parliament Building.

As we returned to our ship, I thought about the French and British relations in this part of the country and vowed to return to learn more.

(We did go back to Quebec City a few more times with our son, and stayed longer on each trip. We also visited the other areas around Old Quebec, as well as nearby towns and villages. I wrote about those visits as well. Stay tuned for succeeding posts with more details on each city section.)