Fancy Dining at a Train Station

On our most recent to Québec City, we decided to leave our car in Montreal and took the train instead. And since that was my first time to get into the city by rail, it was also my first time to see their main train station, Gare du Palais.

I must say it is one-of-a-kind. Unlike the commercial-and-generic-looking train stations all throughout the country, Gare du Palais has character. Built in 1915 by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the style of the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, it gives visitors arriving in the city their first taste of charm and romance.

The picturesque heritage building that looks like a mini-Renaissance palace has a monumental hall, marble floors with mosaic, brick walls, vaulted tile ceiling, and stained-glass windows. But despite its grandiose design, the building itself is very functional. It’s L-shaped structure makes it possible for several trains to arrive at the same time. Upon its completion, it featured the most modern sanitary facilities and the day’s latest telegram and telephone technology.

Massive steel arches supported the structure while providing a resolutely modern look. There was also a 12-meter-high bay window that bathed the huge entrance hall in natural light. These features remain up to this day, and as if these are not enough to impress travelers, two public artworks were installed outside to adorn the station.

The first one is a central fountain sculpture called Éclatement II by a master abstract sculptor. The piece represents overlapping tectonic plates and the large jet in the centre evokes the power of water, a homage to Québec’s hydroelectric heritage.

The second art piece is called Rêver le Nouveau Monde, a sculpture composed of 40 silver chairs set on the white gravel path and engraved with the words of famous Québec authors. They are meant to represent sharing, community, and transience, like when travelling on a train for a few hours, the chair is yours while you need it, then it becomes someone else’s.

That’s what I like about art. Aside from the physical beauty, its execution and composition convey a lot of meanings that make one ponder about life. Sigh! I wish my scientifically inclined husband could see art the way that I do.

The attraction this station bears on him is not its architecture or art, but a more practical one, for inside were a number of surprisingly good restaurants whose calibre you won’t expect from eateries inside a train station. But, hey, this is a fancy train station after all, so it should be no surprise that it houses fancy restaurants as well.

My husband had his eye on this steakhouse called Le Charbon Steakhouse since we arrived. Hence, I was not surprised that after one tiresome excursion, when my boys wanted to eat something heavy and substantial, my husband immediately suggested going there for dinner.

The interior ambience was classy in a Belle-Époque kind of way – dim, red lighting, thick carpets, heavy wooden furniture, crystal chandeliers, and antique desk lamps. One will not miss the imposing bar in the middle of the room and the 20-foot-high range-hood overlooking the charcoal grill which gives this place an air of authenticity as a premium steakhouse. The restaurant is said to have mastered the age-old art of maple grilling which gives the steak a distinctive flavour. It also takes pride in using only the highest quality of meat suffused with flavours in its very own aging chamber that has 7,000 pounds of Himalayan pink salt blocks. Impressive indeed!

The food did not disappoint. My husband ordered a 16-ounce New York steak with baked potatoes and grilled vegetables on the side. I went for the three-course table d’hôte menu. For my appetizer, I ordered the caramelized crème brulée foie gras with a blend of spices served with maple cranberry chutney and cranberry almond crackers. For my main, I had a six-ounce medium-rare beef medallion in red wine sauce served with shallot confit and mashed potatoes. The meal came with coffee and dessert which was a duo of vanilla and raspberry gelato topped on a bed of mixed fruits. I also ordered a Caesar.

There was a kid’s menu available and there was a promotion that week wherein kids could eat for free if two adult meals were ordered. However, our steak connoisseur son chose the filet mignon, which unfortunately, was the only item on the kids’ menu that was not included in the promo because it was priced at $20. All the rest – spaghetti with meatballs, cheeseburger, steak frit, and beef ribs – came for free.

But as my husband said, we were in a fancy steakhouse and both of us ordered fancy food, so we’ll have our son enjoy something fancy as well. His meal came with a bowl of vegetable soup, a drink, and a dessert of chocolate sundae sprinkled with berries. We finished everything on our plates. The food was that good!

The restaurant also has its own butcher shop where one can buy organic meat – Charlevoix beef and veal, Breton pork, osso bucco, duck rolls – and a host of other cooking and meat grilling products such as sauces, marinades, pasta sauce, Chardonnay Parmesan cheese, and spice blends. As well, they have a huge wine cellar with a great assortment of wines from all over the world available for both wine pairing while you dine, or for purchase.

This is one place we will certainly visit again. I heard they are also known for their tartares, duck dishes, and grilled seafood, so I would try those for next time. We would have loved to dine here one more time before we departed by train, but we would have missed our ride.

And so, as we bade goodbye to Québec City, we promised ourselves that this won’t be the last time. There is plenty more to discover.

This charming and quaint city met and exceeded all my expectations – magnificent heritage, historic old streets, picturesque structures, gastronomic delights, quirky entertainment, festive atmosphere, and warm, wonderful people.

Till next time! Or as we say in French, “Au revoir!”