Beautiful Belgrade Streets

Our Tour Director described Belgrade as “the Prague ten years ago.” Well, that was in 2019, when Belgrade was not really on the tourist radar yet. I wonder how it is like now and whether the line “the Prague ten years ago” still applies but fast-forwarded to another ten years. I was in Prague in 2024 and it was packed with tourists! I would be interested to find out how Belgrade is faring.

Back then, I wouldn’t say that Belgrade is one of the prettiest European city I have seen. But there is something about it that makes it pretty…a certain energy that draws a traveler to stay a little longer and get to know it better. Behind its grit lies some very interesting stories.

My favourite area of Belgrade’s Stari Grad (Old Town) is its Bohemian Quarter, locally called Skardarlija. It is a vintage street with cobblestone pavements and quaint restaurants and cafés lined up on both sides. The vibe reminded me of the Montmartre district of Paris, and of the Petit Champlain district of Old Town Quebec City.

The wooden cobbles, the hanging flowerpots filled with colourful summer blooms, the gas lanterns, the brick wall buildings painted in muted Mediterranean shades, and the eclectic sculpture in every corner is the stuff of art and romance, and of magic and history that had long ago inspired painters, writers, and photographers. This, I thought, was the pretty and charming section of Belgrade, in stark contrast to the bullet-ridden old buildings from the other side of town.

Another beautiful street that I enjoyed exploring was the Knez Mihailova, a vibrant, pedestrian-only shopping street that serves as the main hub of Belgrade’s Old Town. Named after Mihailo Obrenovic III, Prince of Serbia, this is one of the oldest and most valuable landmarks of the city that is actually protected by law. This street stands on the very same main access road of the ancient city of Singidunum during the Roman times, and its arteries follow the ancient central grid as well.

On one end is Trg Republike (Republic Square), Belgrade’s central square, where all main gatherings take place. It is surrounded by the most important buildings of the city – the National Theatre, the National Museum, the Army House, and several minor cultural institutions. In the centre is the monument to Knez Mihailo proudly straddling his horse.

From there, the road leads to the famous Belgrade Fortress, and on the opposite end, it leads to another square, the Terazije Square surrounded by architectural masterpieces from various eras such as, the hotels Balkan and Moskva, an excellent example of Secessionist Architecture; the Albanija Palace, which was the tallest building in the Balkans at the time of its construction in the 1930s; and the Classical palaces of Atina, Igumanova, Krsmanovica, and Asikuracioni Generali that certainly gives this section a touch of the nobility.

The Knez Mihailova is a very interesting street indeed. It features buildings and mansions built during the late 1870s in the Art Noveau and Art Deco styles, most of which have been converted into various shops and restaurants, and even a department store. Each edifice contains a piece of Serbian history and has a curious story to tell.

Aside from the charming structures, the street is characterized by a pavement made with black granite slabs, four decorative fountains, a drinking fountain made of white marble, vintage-looking candelabra lampposts, and sculptures made by local artists. I was not surprised when our Tour Director proudly declared it to be one of the most beautiful pedestrian zones in South East Europe.

But what makes it even more appealing is the activity and constant buzz of local people and tourists milling about, producing an energetic pulse that tells everyone that this is the place to be when in Belgrade. It houses several art institutions, representative offices of various airlines, and chic boutiques from the most popular international fashion brands, while at the same time hosts street artists, local artisans, musicians, and buskers, all showcasing their art and talent.

At the end of the street, there is a large modern complex – the Rajiceva Shopping Mall. It looked a little out-of-place and our Tour Director pointed out that the construction of this building created a lot of controversies.

There used to be a house of a politician on that location which was demolished in the 1950s and replaced by a trolleybus roundabout, which was in turn, removed in 2000. A design competition was held for a new structure and in 2009, the permit for construction based on this design was issued.

Other architects called it a “monstrosity,” while others protested the fact that they were building over Roman remains which are shallow and conserved underground and that this is a cultural issue. Still others were against the usage of objects confiscated by the Yugoslav Communist authorities after the Second World War.

The construction dragged on and even after the completion of the mall and the underground parking in 2017 and the luxurious hotel beside in in 2018, criticism of the project continues. They still call it an “eyesore,” among other equally insulting names and titles, stating that the architecture is unfit for the old section of Belgrade and that the size is twice what is allowed.

Insults aside, the building seems to be popular as shoppers go in and out. I recall that in the days when the Eiffel Tower in Paris was just constructed, and more recently, the Pyramid at The Louvre, they had similar reactions from the local population. Perhaps, in twenty years or so, this will be more acceptable to the younger generation.

At the end of the Small Staircase from the Sava Promenade at Kalemegdan Parklands close to the Sava River Harbour, you will come across the French Embassy built in the Art Deco style and constructed specifically to house the embassy (as opposed to the French Government renting an existing building). If you continue on to the Kosancicev Venac Street, you will hit the corner where the Austrian Embassy is located, resplendent in bright yellow in the Art Noveau style with a richly decorated green roof. It’s like having a piece of Vienna in the city.

Nearby is a curious mint-green coloured house with a unique façade. It was built in the Vienna Secession style but with design elements that one doesn’t see in typical houses of that genre. It has a wooden double-leaf door with carvings of carps. Above the second-floor terrace is an elaborate accent on the wall that features beige and maroon tiles and water-themed décor such as fish, water lilies, and reeds. It looked like a cake.

Our Tour Director told us that this was the house of Mihailo Petrovic, a famous Serbian mathematician and scientist. This house is also known as the Mika Alas House. Mika was his nickname and “Alas” means “river fisherman.” Mika, aside from being a math genius, was also an avid fisherman and was personally involved in the design of this house. This building was declared a cultural monument, not only because of its historic significance, but also because of its architectural uniqueness.

Right across is the Mihailo Petrovic Park, also named after him. Mihailo Petrovic’s bust proudly stands at the centre of the park. We stayed there for a bit to watch the boats go by. I also recall our Tour Director sharing a little secret with us when we were there. Well, it was more of a gossip that was whispered to each other but never discussed in public.

Apparently, despite the honour given to Mika for all his accomplishments, he was secretly considered a renegade because of his sexual orientation, and it was rumoured that fellow scientist and close friend Milutin Milancovic was more than a friend. For me, it was nothing extraordinary. He was simply a man who lived in an age when society was less accepting.

We went to see the Patriarchate of the Serbian Orthodox Church with our Tour Director as well. It is an impressive building with low columns and an arched portal. Within this complex is The Library and Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church. Across the street was the Holy Archangel Michael Cathedral, known simply as “The Cathedral” among the locals. It is one of the most important places of worship in the country, as Serbians are predominantly Eastern Orthodox. It also houses several relics of Serbian Orthodox saints.

Then, on the same street, we checked out a restaurant that became popular because it has no name. It is simply known as “?.” Yes, it's a question mark and that’s the only sign written on its façade.

This tavern in a charming Balkan-style building dates back to the first half of the 19th century and is the oldest in Belgrade. It has changed ownership and names several times.

In 1892, the owner called it, “By The Cathedral” because of its proximity to the Orthodox Church, but the church protested, not wanting a place of hospitality to be associated with the religious institution. As a temporary solution, the owner placed a question mark on the door and it has since stayed this way. Our guide said that the interior remains true to its bohemian ambiance and that the menu offers authentic Serbian dishes.

We walked past several blocks until we reached the “party” section lined with pubs and restaurants and festooned with banners, buntings, and red parasols, where we posed for a group shot before we parted ways for some independent gallivanting.

But before our group broke up into smaller parties, with their own plans for the evening, our Tour Director gave us instructions. He showed us where the bus would pick us up and that we had to be there in three hours, on the dot. Then off we went our separate ways - some wanted to have a round of drinks at a pub, some wanted to shop, and others wanted to go to an art gallery.

I was with the Vietnamese Canadian couple and the two American ladies, but we wanted to do different things. The couple were planning to have an early dinner (they were following a no-food-after-six diet). The American flight attendant was on the hunt for a unique pair of traditional earrings, and the other American lady wanted to look for local artwork. I wanted to get my hands on ice-cold beer, but because I wanted to shop for souvenirs as well, I didn’t want to sit in a pub for two hours. I asked our Tour Director which beer he’d recommend, and he told me to buy his favourite and the best Serbian beer – the Jelen (means “deer”).

I ended up at a souvenir shop whose window display featured a huge chess set with ancient Serbian mythology characters. I went inside to ask if they had a smaller version, one that could fit in my luggage to take home to my son. Sadly, it came only in one size.

The store was tended by two friendly young ladies, and we had an interesting chat about travel when they asked me where I was from. I bought the customary magnet for our fridge, and small bottles of rakija, which they helped me choose. They sold different varieties and the many choices got me undecisive.

Rakija is a traditional fruit brandy popular in the Balkans, and each country has its own variant. It is a clear liquid, produced from the distillation of fermented fruit with an alcohol percentage ranging from 40-65%. The most popular, and the strongest, is the plum variety.

According to the store clerks, rakija is consumed by the locals not just for pleasure, but for its medicinal properties. It is good for the hormones and can cure every kind of ailment known to man. Serbians, in particular, take pride in producing it (every home has at least two or three bottles and every Serbian either makes his own or has a relative who makes one) and serving rakija is a big part of their social interactions, brought out in times of celebration and in times of sorrow. In fact, rakija is considered their national drink. I bought small bottles packaged nicely to give as presents and to keep for myself. I chose strawberry, peach, and walnut and olive.

I also asked the ladies to recommend a pub where I can just get a grab-and-go beer. They suggested that if I was not in the mood to hang out in a pub, I should just get it from the supermarket as there was one nearby anyway. It would be a lot cheaper. I thought it was a good idea. I could sit by the fountain, rest my feet, people-watch, and drink my beer. I’ve seen some locals doing it anyway, so I didn’t think it was forbidden.

I told them I was going to get Jelen, to which they vehemently protested. I am not sure why, but perhaps, their taste is different from that of my foodie guide. One of the ladies said I should try her favourite Staropramen (which is a Czech) and the other lady recommended Zajecarsco, a local brand. Since I couldn’t remember the names, they showed me pictures. I tried to memorize how they looked like because the names were written in Cyrillic. The girls gave me directions to the supermarket and off I went after I thanked them.

I found the store easily and as the ladies said, it had a wide selection of local and European beer, ice cold and ready to drink. I was going to get one of each recommended brand, but the Jelen came only in a six-pack, so I got a can of Staropramen and a can of Zajecarsco. I checked out some local products and bought a local cookie snack. I did not want to be too full because we were going to try a nice restaurant that night with our guide. I gulped down my first beer which quenched my thirst and refreshed me. Though the sun had already set, the heat and humidity were still quite uncomfortable.

As I resumed my shopping (window-shopping this time because I already got my magnet and rakija and had no need for anything else), I bumped into the American flight attendant. She showed me the earrings she found, and I showed her my rakija haul. I also told her about the supermarket down the street where I got my beer and now, she wanted to get hers, too.

We heard a commotion nearby, so we decided to check it out. It was a mime-protest from a group of environmentalists. We watched the performance for a few minutes, even though we could only guess from the posters that they’re carrying what it was all about – something to do with the oceans and fish. My companion got curious, so she took aside one of the protestors and asked. And oh boy, she went on and on passionately about their cause. Apparently, they were against fishing and eating fish because in a few years, there will be no more fish in our oceans.

My American tour mate said afterwards that this was going to be impossible to do. We have vegetarians everywhere, and now non-fish eaters, too! She said she can’t live on salad alone and I told her, it would be difficult for me to give up sushi and sashimi.

She never got around to getting her beer because along the way, we went in and out of several shops until we were tired. At that point, we decided to just check if the bus was already at the meeting place and to just wait there, hopefully, with the air conditioning already turned on.

We found the bus in no time and luckily, our Tour Director was already there, so the driver let us in. We chatted with them inside the bus while waiting for the rest of the group. I showed our guide my rakija purchase and told him I couldn’t get the Jelen beer because six cans were too much for me. I had one more beer left and I was still thirsty, though. He allowed me to drink it, since we were the only ones on the bus. Normally, drinking alcohol is not allowed onboard, but he was making an exception for me because according to him, I am a “responsible, mature person.” He would not have allowed the youngsters to do this. Hahaha, there you go – the perks of being an “oldie!”

After a few minutes, we saw the older American lady hesitatingly approaching our bus. Our guide got out and waved to her. When she got in, she gave a huge sigh of relief. She looked rattled. She told us that she wasn’t sure which street led to the meeting point and for some time, she was circling the area around the opposite square and getting nowhere. She told us that setting us off on our own was really stressful for her. It occurred to me that she was used to group tours catered to seniors where the tour guide herd everyone like kindergarten kids everywhere. We suggested that she keep an electronic list of the names, addresses, and phone numbers of our hotels. Should she get lost or not make it on time, she could hop on a cab and go straight to the hotel. We also helped her figure out how to join our tour Facebook group where she could send an “SOS” message anytime.

I later mentioned to our guide that he could perhaps give her his cellphone number for emergencies. He said he would, then he shook his head and said that it is usually older Americans who get rattled and worried about every little thing that nobody else worries about. I could tell he had some interesting experiences with senior Americans in past tours.

Everyone arrived on time and shortly, we drove to our hotel. For those who had wanted to join the group dinner that night, we were given an hour to rest and freshen up. My roommate and I decided to join. Our Tour Director said that the restaurant was walking distance from our hotel, only a few blocks away.

We went to a classy bar-and-grill with a modern interior done in the industrial style. The menu featured both traditional Serbian fare and Mediterranean fusion cuisine. My roommate and I decided to share plates. We ordered the shopska salad a beef dish that our server recommended.

The shopska is popular throughout the Balkans and Central Europe. It is a salad made with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, sweet peppers, and olives…but the star ingredient is the sirene cheese, the same one they put inside the banitsa, but on the salad, it is shredded. The salad itself is plain and simple, but the cheese elevates it into something out of this world. I should also mention that the tomatoes throughout the Balkans are exceptional. Maybe it’s their climate and soil, but every single tomato I’ve ever eaten while there were exceptionally sweet and juicy.

Our beef dish was called, Ramstek na Lavi, roughly translated into “beef steak lava,” which was sizzling steak cooked in butter, rosemary, and garlic. It was tender and juicy and served with roasted potatoes and carrots. Again, our Serbian Tour Director said, “We have the best meat here in Serbia.”

I shared a bottle of local red wine with my roommate as well, also recommended by our server. Initially, I just wanted a glass, but my roommate insisted we could finish one bottle between us…and we did. We both slept soundly that night. Hahaha!