Swinging on the Capilano Suspension Bridge

Capilano Suspension Bridge Park is the most popular tourist attraction in Vancouver. I am confidently saying this as a former Vancouver resident. I have lost count of the number of times I’ve been there, both as a tourist (before I moved to Canada) and as a local. Whenever out-of-town guests come, the first place we take them to, as part of their Vancouver sightseeing experience, is this place.

The park is only around nine kilometers from downtown Vancouver. In fact, there is even a regular city bus that takes you right at its entrance and the ride is a mere 25 minutes from the Lonsdale Quay station on North Vancouver (and at the time of this writing, the city now offers free shuttle service from downtown hotels). How convenient is that! It is hard to fathom how a place like this can exist in such close proximity to the city centre, but you better believe it.

A visit to Capilano will not disappoint you, for there is so much to see and do. The highlight, of course, is the suspension bridge that has become one of the most iconic symbols of Vancouver. One doesn’t visit Vancouver without at least trying to take a tourist picture here.

Originally built in 1889 with cables made of hemp ropes, it has since evolved into a more formidable bridge with steel cables said to be strong enough to hold up a fully-loaded 747 airline or 98 full-grown elephants altogether. That is a reassuring piece of information for those who might be having a little hesitation crossing it, which is still quite understandable, considering that the bridge is 137 meters long and hangs 70 meters above the Capilano River.

To give you an idea how high it is, if you imagine the Statue of Liberty standing at the base of the river, the Capilano Suspension Bridge would be around her shoulders. And since it is a suspension bridge, it does sway with the wind, and of course the motion of the crowd crossing it, from time to time. From experience though, I have not encountered anyone who refused to get on it, even my elderly guests, or very young nephews and nieces.

And if one indeed has a fear of heights, I would still motivate him to “take a walk on the wild side,” so to speak, for the bridge is just the beginning of wonderful things to come. You wouldn’t want to pay the not-so-cheap park entrance fee and miss all that!

If one decides that it’s impossible to overcome acrophobia, there are a few things one can do on the side of the bridge near the park entrance.

One is to view the Story Centre laid out on a wooden walkway on the path that leads to the bridge. There, one can learn about the history of the bridge and the original “Capilano Tramps” (the early adventurers who made the long “tramp” to the bridge in the olden days). It features artifacts and antiques from that era, informative signage, life-size photo murals, and ambiance sound that mimics the “voices from the past.” One of the huge photo murals is a group shot of the “Capilano Tramps.” You can stand behind them for a picture, pretending you are part of this group of brave souls (imagine getting on the original bridge built of wood and hemp ropes!).

Right across is the Kia’palano, a centre that features totem poles and Indigenous art and history. For those who do not know, building and placing totem poles on chosen grounds are an inherent part of the traditions of the First Nations peoples in the Northwest Coast of the Americas.

Totem poles are basically “story” monuments, carved to represent family lineage and legends, and portray spirituality and sacred beings, as well as significant events. Each totem pole is unique, depicting a history told distinctly through carvings and colourful paint.

Capilano Parks boasts of owning the largest private collection of totem poles in North America…and it’s easy to see that. Strolling the grounds gives one a glimpse of the First Nations peoples’ culture and special connection with the natural world. On a lucky day, visitors can even chance upon a totem pole carver and see him in action. On most summer days, there are also shows and cultural presentations to delight the audience and give them a chance to learn about Indigenous ways first-hand.

It is also on this side where one can shop and eat. The Trading Post gift shop, designed to resemble the shops of long ago, carries amazing merchandise, from clothing, accessories and jewelry pieces, to unique Canadian collectibles and souvenir items. They have an extensive selection of Indigenous handicraft, as well as local specialty food products, such as homemade fudge, maple syrup, and smoked salmon.

Nearby are restaurants that offer various dining options. There is one that specializes in West Coast classics and a grill kiosk that serves barbecue favourites, burgers, and hotdogs. There is a café that serves locally-roasted organic coffee, along with freshly-made gourmet wraps and sandwiches. There is a small ice cream shop that handcrafts its ice cream in small batches using locally-sourced product (their honey-lavender and strawberry-lime ice creams are my favourites) and a snack shack in a cabin that offers freshly-baked goods, refreshing beverages, and their famous “beaver balls” that are like sugar-coated donut holes.

If you are in the mood for fine dining with a view, there is a restaurant situated along the Canyon Lookout known for its West Coast ambiance and cuisine that focuses on local ingredients and ocean-wise seafood products. They also pair their food with exquisite B.C. wines.

But for the adventurous, the real deal is on the other side of the bridge. It is where you can commune with nature - encountering towering evergreens, sniffing the cedar-scented rainforest air, skirting the glistening river on labyrinthine wooden platforms and crossing them on narrow cantilevered bridges, climbing steep stairs, negotiating precarious granite precipices, and even interacting with raptors and other wildlife.

The first thing that welcomes you as you get off the bridge on the other side is the The Living Forest exhibition. Here, you will find large panels with information about the delicate temperate West Coast rainforest system. As you stroll through the forest and pass small trout ponds around a short loop, you are provided with short backgrounders on the geology and the ecology system of the area, as well as interesting trivia about the creatures that inhabit the forest. Think of it as an educational and picturesque walk in the park. You get to learn and relax at the same time.

In the summer and early fall months, the Raptors Ridge facility gives visitors a chance to meet the raptors that are under their care. Dedicated to wildlife conservation and public education, the handlers facilitate the “meet and greet” with the creatures and spend time giving short lectures and answering questions. I had been privileged to meet some of them during my visits and they are quite fascinating.

Also offered every hour are complimentary history and nature talks that provide interested visitors with an interactive synopsis of the park, the bridge, its past and present owners, the role of the First Nations people in this endeavor, the climate and environment of the West Coast, and its rich flora and fauna.

My favourite is the Treetops Adventure, said to be the first of its kind in North America. Basically, it is a series of seven elevated suspension bridges attached to giant Douglas firs with viewing platforms and tree houses at strategic points. Reaching as high as 33.5 meters above ground, this quintessential forest canopy walk gives visitors a different perspective of the rainforest.

They refer to it as a “squirrel’s eye view” and indeed, we shared the space with a lot of cute squirrels as we walked along this hanging trail.

In my opinion, it is not in the least bit scary. I’ve seen young children, even toddlers, navigating these bridges without hesitation, and even shrieking in delight when the suspended bridges sway. Our son, who was six that time, and his cousins, who were also around the same age, marched through them without even minding the height.

The newest, and the most daring installation in the park is The Cliffwalk, which people refer to as “not for the faint of heart.” This one takes you through rainforest vegetation on a series of unobtrusive cantilevered and suspended walkways jutting out from the cliff face above the river to previously unexplored areas of the park. It is high, narrow, and in some sections, open-gated.

As this was constructed two years after we left Vancouver, I had never seen this in my previous visits. Looking at it from a viewpoint, it seemed heart-stopping, but fun. However, on account of the little kids we had in tow, we did not even consider going. Plus, the line-up was quite crazy that day. Perhaps for another time!

We heard that the park has also started the tradition of illuminating the bridge and its surroundings with thousands of lights during the Christmas holiday season. I can just imagine how magical it is - the long bridge festooned with twinkling lights as if leading you to an enchanted land where giant Douglas firs lit above and below its collars make for spectacular Christmas trees, and where bright, round lanterns hanging on tree branches appear like floating glowing balls in the dark of the night.

I have never visited Capilano Park in the winter time, as most of our guests come during the summer months, but I think it is worth considering going back there in December.