Madrid On My Own

That night was the last night of the official tour, so we held our farewell dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, followed by some picture-taking and exchange of contact information. Our Tour Director gave instructions regarding check out and airport transfers for the next day.

Most of my tour mates, including my travel amigas, were leaving Spain at various times in the morning, with Ms. Lady Leader’s group departing at dawn. We said our good-byes and turned in early,

I had decided to stay in Madrid for another three days, so I slept in the next morning. I checked out at around 10:30 a.m. after a late breakfast and took a cab to the hotel that I booked for the rest of my stay in Spain. Since I would be on my own this time, I wanted to stay closer to the heart of the tourist area. I found a modestly-priced four-star hotel on Gran Via, five minutes by foot to Plaza Mayor.

After checking in, I inquired at the concierge desk about some local tours I could book. I was especially interested in watching a bullfight. I was in Madrid, after all, so why not?

I was told that there was one available for seven o’clock that night, but it was a novilladas fight (with young bulls and less experienced fighters). The concierge added, however, that since we were still within the San Isidro bullfight season (from May to June in celebration of the feast of Spain’s patron saint, St. Isidore the Labourer), the show would include a variety of fights – novillos (young bulls), rejones (bullfights on horseback), and Goyesca (in period costume). It was going to be an amazing one.

He did not need to convince me further. Since there were no other bullfights available in the next three days anyway, this was my only choice. I reserved a ticket right away. I was given instructions on where to meet the guide, which was only a couple of blocks down, at three o’clock. The concierge said that the ticket also included a city tour and a couple of stops at famous landmarks. Nice! I also booked a day tour to Toledo for the following day.

I had a few hours left for lunch, so I walked towards Plaza Mayor and revisited the Taberna Postas Quince restaurant, where my travel amigas and I ate the day before. I thought their food was superb and the tables were cozy for lone diners. Luckily, my table of choice, which was more like a bar facing the window overlooking the touristy street, was available.

This time, I ordered a couple of appetizers - a plate of boquerones Malaguenos (anchovies from the Malaga region, golden fried in olive oil until crisp and served with lemon wedges) and a cheese croquette, accompanied by a bottle of shandy. I ate my lunch at leisure, savouring every bite while watching people pass by with their children, strollers, and shopping bags.

It felt strange to be eating by myself. I sort of missed my travel amigas, but at the same time, I enjoyed the solitude. I was grateful for these extra days in Spain for myself - free to do what I wanted at my own time and pace, and without the noise of not-so-wanted company, as the image of Ms. Lady Leader flashed in my mind.

I spent the remaining time hanging out at Puerta del Sol (Spanish for “Gate of the Sun”), a busy public square. This was one of the gates of the city wall that surrounded Madrid in the 15th century and was named after the rising sun that decorated the entry, since it was oriented to the east. On its south side is the Real Casa de Correos (old post office) that now serves as the office of the President of Madrid, and not far from the building is a statue of Charles III of Spain, nicknamed, El Rey-Alcalde (the King-Mayor) due to the extensive public works program he spearheaded in the city during his reign.

The other day, our Our Tour Director told us that the annual New Year’s Celebration is held at Puerta del Sol, making it the equivalent of New York’s Times Square. But instead of a huge, glittery ball, they have the ancient clock that looks down from the tower of the post office building that marks the official start of the new year. Revelers gather at the plaza and at the stroke of midnight, the clock chimes, and everyone eats twelve grapes each to bring them luck for the twelve months of the new year. This is followed by the popping of cava bottles and a night of toasting and merriment. The countdown is also televised, watched by millions of televiewers. Bars and restaurants around the area are open as part of the city-wide fiesta.

At that moment though, there was a picket going on at the square …some kind of protest, which I heard, was not unusual, for this is a favourite spot for public activities like this. I decided not to investigate. Instead, I looked for that famous landmark…the kilometro cero, which is a small plaque on the ground directly north of the post office. It is the symbolic centre of Spain and serves as the basis of the Spanish road numbering system from which all Spanish radial roads are measured. Despite the huge crowd, I managed to find it.

I also took a closer look at the iconic El Oso y el Madroño (The Bear and the Strawberry Tree), the heraldic symbol of Madrid. The other day, I couldn't take a proper photo because of a group of tourists having their pictorial in front of it. This statue represents the city’s coat of arms with the bear’s front paws touching the trunk of the tree and reaching out to get some fruits. I sent a picture to my husband to show my son. He loves bears!

Another thing that this place has in common with Times Square is the proliferation of all sorts of street performers. I even recognized some of them from the previous days. Such dedication! It must take a lot of time and effort to put on all the costume, make-up, and props every single day and then stay at their usual spots under the hot summer sun.

I marveled at their antics and short performances. My favourites were the genie "levitating" on a magic carpet (the most intriguing for me), a couple of bronze soldier "statues" standing still on a 30ish-degree angle battle formation (they reminded me of my cousin's plastic toy soldiers when we were kids), the three-headed man in a box (that scared the living hell out of anyone who came close), and the golden “fallen angel” flapping her giant wings (must be super tiring, but seemed like a good workout routine to achieve toned arms and shoulders...hahaha!).

There was also an assortment of characters walking around and posing for photos with tourists, from Sponge Bob to superheroes, to transformer-type robots. And like the characters that stomp around Times Square, I found out that their Puerta del Sol counterparts were equally persistent. I maintained a safe distance, while trying to figure out how they pulled off their tricks. But I ended up just doing a Google search afterwards. Hahaha!

The rest of the stuff that I encountered along my walk were the same things I had seen in the past two days of exploring Madrid. But it occurred to me that this time, it was different. Now that I was by myself, I was looking at them with a brand-new pair of eyes. I was viewing them from a different perspective. I was noticing details I did not pay attention to before, and I was more attuned to what else was happening in the background.

I think that was my "Aha! Moment," the moment of insight, so to say, when I discovered and understood the essence of traveling alone, and when I perceived the simple joys and pleasures it could bring.

Technically, this trip was a solo travel of sorts, since I was not with family or friends, but for most of the tour, I did hang out with three other solo travelers (which was a different kind of fun, too). My new-found travel amigas and I explored places together, had meals together, and signed up for excursions together. But we never really had our own "alone" moments. This time around, for my remaining days in Madrid, I would be truly "traveling solo," and that gave me a particular kind of gratification.

The idea of being able to do what I wanted, when I wanted it, without having to worry about following a set schedule and itinerary, or waiting for other people, or making compromises with my choices, was quite liberating, There was a refreshing feeling of sheer freedom, a sense of serenity, and a heightened awareness of myself and my surroundings. I noticed a distinct spark of excitement for adventures that are yet to unfold, and a flicker of wonderment for potential awesome surprises. It was like being a new person. I loved it! I told myself that I should do this more often.

I actually fulfilled that promise years later. While I continued doing family travels (i.e., my husband, son, and me), couple travels (just me and hubby, though less frequent now compared to our pre-parenting days), and occasional group travels with extended family or friends, I started venturing on my own. And while I would join escorted trips as a solo traveler, and would sufficiently socialize with my tour mates, I would spend more time exploring by myself whenever I had the chance.

Not only did this grant me more confidence to get out of my comfort zone and develop resilience and flexibility, but it also allowed me to connect better with people and immerse myself fully in the local culture. My adventures and misadventures also taught me a lot of life lessons.

Some people asked (and still ask) me whether I had ever experienced fears, doubts, awkwardness, or loneliness at some point in my solo journeys. To be honest, the answer is "no" to all of the above. I've only had positive feelings - excitement, courage, determination, faith in myself, and peaceful solitude. I learned how to act with grace under uncertainties and I became more open and spontaneous. I got accustomed to being alone, even enjoying my own company. I embraced the sanctity of my space and my "me" time and appreciated its perks.

Being alone doesn't equate with being lonely, I tell them. Solitude is something positive. It gives you inner peace and allows you to see and listen with your heart. Likewise, solo travel doesn't mean one is unwanted, abandoned, or is being anti-social. It is a personal choice driven by a yearning to experience the world in a different way. My motto is that solo travel is essential for personal growth and is food for the soul.

Family travels, couple travels, and travel with a group of friends are all good. Each carries its own merit. But since my "alone" time in Madrid, I had added solo travel to the roster.

Different travel styles certainly have their own purpose, and I do believe that we should give ourselves the chance to experience each of them. But I must say, solo travel is one of my top choices. It could be the most daunting, but also the most rewarding.

(Update: I have since done a few “solo” trips after this one – to the Balkans; then Romania, mostly in the Transylvanian region; a quick one in Japan; and then the Baltics.)