Blending in Bangkok

I met my fellow travellers only on the day of our departure. A cocktail party was thrown for us by the tour sponsors at the airport lounge hours before our flight. We met representatives from the Thailand Incentive and Convention Association, the Tourism Authority of Thailand, Thai Airways International, and the various travel agencies that brought us there.

There were fifteen of us joining this tour. The Marketing Manager from Thai Airways, who would be travelling with us, welcomed everyone and gave us an overview of our schedule and activities in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. I was the youngest person in the group. My tour mates represented a good cross-section of various industries – multi-national manufacturing corporations, pharmaceutical companies, telecommunications groups, PR and marketing agencies, and there was one journalist from the leading broadsheet in the country. The sponsors did not seem to mind that I was there on behalf of my uncle, the original invitee. I think they might have even thought of me as a suitable replacement, given my background in television production and employment at a major media network, which contributed to the diversity of their line-up of professionals.

Our small travel group got acquainted with each other and hit it off right away, so we were off to a good start. Upon arriving in Bangkok in the early evening, we were treated to a welcome dinner at a five-star hotel, complete with a traditional Thai musical performance. Our hosts, the hotel’s management team, gave us a tour of their opulent facility afterwards and escorted us to our private suites for a good night’s rest.

The next few days were spent going around the city to see the most popular tourist spots, punctuated by a series of more hotel visits, with each one trying to outdo the others in their show of hospitality – extravagant buffet breakfasts, sumptuous lunches, elegant formal dinners, decadent desserts, high tea service, complimentary spa treatments, fresh fruit platter delivered to the room every morning, and champagne and chocolates at night. We were given the royal treatment everywhere we went. I remember looking out from the observatory point of Baiyoke Sky Hotel, Thailand’s tallest building, and scanning the spectacular view of the metropolis as I said to myself, “Welcome to Bangkok! Sawasdee!”

Bangkok exceeded my expectations. Even without the graciousness of our sponsors and all the trimmings that came with the extraordinary reception, Bangkok still mesmerized me. Being there was like setting foot on a different world without feeling so much alienated. In fact, part of me felt right at home. There were several areas of the city that reminded me of Manila – the cityscape, the traffic, the crowds, the street vendors, the noise, and the overall vibe. Whenever I walked, I blended in. If not for the language, I could have passed for a local for I looked like everyone else (unlike in Hong Kong or China where I always stand out in a crowd). In fact, while I was there, people talked to me in the local dialect wherever I went, and some of them didn’t even believe me when I told them I could not understand what they were saying until I started speaking Filipino to prove that I really did not live there. Apparently, I could pass for a typical Thai woman.

But Bangkok has its distinct characteristics that make it endearing. It is not just a bland city of gray skyscrapers and neon signs. From its skylines, you can trace the intricate silhouettes of its magnificent temples and pagodas. Along its busy streets are the iconic tuk-tuks, the cycled or motorized version of the manually-pulled rickshaws of long ago that criss-cross the sea of cars and trucks stuck in traffic. Ornate spirit houses with votive and floral offerings grace the entrances of both traditional residential houses and modern office buildings. Teak boats and barges ply the canals or klongs. Though most canals in Bangkok have been filled and converted into streets, the other side of the mighty Chao Phraya River still retains most of the larger canals. It is where the old capital of Thonburi lies, where up to now, it is still possible to get a glimpse of the traditional way of life that centres around navigating these klongs.

We made the rounds of the renowned temples in the city – Wat Traimit, which houses a three-meter, five-ton solid gold Buddha statue; the Wat Pho, which houses the highly-revered giant “Reclining Buddha;” and the Wat Benchabophit, which is famous for its elegant, white marble façade and Buddha images lining the cloister walls behind the main chapel.

Of course, there was a stop at the Grand Palace, Bangkok’s main attraction. It is the former home of the King of Thailand and his Royal Court and the administrative seat of the Thai government. Within the sprawling complex are several other government facilities and landmarks, but the most renowned is the Wat Phra Kaew, more famously known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Emerald Buddha is made from a single block of jade and is the most important icon for Thai people. In fact, no one is allowed near it except for the King of Thailand, who performs the changing of the robe ceremony every change of season.

Exploring the grounds inside the walls of the Grand Palace was like a trip down Bangkok’s history. There was a model of Angkor Wat, commissioned by King Rama IV when Cambodia was still under Siamese control. The murals on the walls adjoining the temple gate tell the Ramayana epic in its entirety showcasing settings and characters with striking images and vivid colours. On the nearby columns were stone inscriptions of the verses while outside the gates stand imposing statues of giant gods, demons, and other mythical creatures. The impressive architecture, the intricate details from the shimmering tiles assembled to form complex patterns, the elaborate carvings, and the glistening spires towering over its golden walls left me in awe. I must say the whole complex is a living testament to the Thai people’s artistry and craftsmanship.

Despite the sweltering heat, we managed to enjoy our late afternoon river cruise on the Chao Phraya. It was the perfect end to a day of cultural immersion – sitting comfortably on a barge watching the dramatic sunset, a cold drink in hand, and a table laden with Thai sweets to munch on. As we languidly drifted down the canals enjoying some small talk while admiring the rustic ambiance of crooked houses on stilts, old bridges arching over the murky waters, and carefree children splashing in the waters, I let myself be carried away by the relaxing scenery. Bangkok is also known as the “Venice of the East” and even though that time I had no idea what it was like to be in Venice, I just relished the experience.

On yet another day, we were treated to a different kind of shopping at the floating market. We hopped onto a decorated long-tail boat that glided past the canals and took us to the centre of it all – busy stalls selling fresh produce, homemade snacks with free samples, colourful flowers, dry goods, souvenir items, and even exotic animals! There were even musicians playing traditional music along the banks. There were riverside restaurants with wooden platforms and low tables that served all kinds of seafood hot off the pot or the barbecue grill. I didn’t buy anything and didn’t get the chance to have a sit-down meal, but I became completely engaged in the myriad of sights, sounds, aromas, and tastes all around me.

On a slightly sad note though, I got a glimpse of Bangkok’s less-than-pleasant side when we went to Patpong, the city’s entertainment district that caters mostly to tourists and expats. We were there primarily for the night market but since it is also considered a “red light district,” we couldn’t help but see the bars lining up its streets. Most of them had their doors wide open, providing more than a sneak preview of the kind of shows they featured inside, I suppose, to entice customers to come in and see more of what they offered. Several times, we were approached by some kind of roadside agents who handed us pamphlets with photos and lists of all kinds of sex shows, featuring women in the nude who could do various stunts.

One of my tour mates told us he had seen one of those shows on a previous visit in Thailand and that his curiosity that time quickly turned into a mixture of disgust and pity, the former for how the women were disrespectfully treated as sex objects, and the latter, for somehow sensing how the women working in this trade were trapped and left with very little choice. This reminded me of an immersion trip that our Theology class did in Manila’s “red light district,” where we went bar-hopping to see for ourselves the despondence and hazards of being in the flesh trade, and where we interviewed entertainment workers to understand their plight on a more personal level. It was an eye-opening experience, and so sad indeed.

Our last day in Bangkok was dedicated to shopping. After all, Bangkok is renowned for being Asia’s retail haven, with goods as varied as those found in Hong Kong, for even lower prices. The city has enough shopping malls and stores for any type of lifestyle and budget. A number of ladies from my tour group were truly excited. We were to be dropped off at the entrance of one of Bangkok’s luxury megamalls, where we could spend the entire day perusing high-end shops for designer-brand clothes, shoes, jewelry, or whatever it is that we fancied. Apparently, the mall also boasts of world-class restaurants, houses Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium, and features a 16-screen theater complex. That should be enough to keep us busy for the day. We were going to be picked up in the late afternoon in time for another grand dinner at the hotel.

My journalist tour mate had a different idea though. He mentioned he wanted to go to the Dusit Palace Park. He was thinking of doing a feature article about it for the “Lifestyle” section of the paper he was writing for. I asked if he would let me tag along. I did not care for shopping and this seemed like a more interesting excursion than a splurging jaunt at the mall. He was fine with it and was actually appreciative of the company. He said he would hire a private taxi to take us around. I offered to pay for half of the fare but he gladly declined, saying he had a transportation budget allotted for this writing assignment. The short drive was a welcome break from the hustle and bustle of downtown Bangkok.

The Dusit Palace Park is a huge palace complex consisting of 13 royal residences set in beautiful gardens. We only managed to visit two, but we did an extensive tour - the Vimanmek Mansion, the largest teak mansion in the world with 22 rooms and which was the former residence of King Rama V, and the Tamnak Ho, the most dramatic-looking mansion in the complex, which houses the personal memorabilia of Queen Rambai Barni that were previously kept in Sukhothai Palace. We promised ourselves that on our next visit, we will definitely go back to this place for there is much to see and learn about Thai culture.

All that walking around got us hungry and we realized we had actually forgotten to eat lunch. Instead of going to a restaurant for a sit-down meal though, we thought we would embark on a food adventure. We both agreed that if we wanted to eat what the locals eat, we should go to a public market and sample some street food. We then asked our cab driver to take us to the closest one.

We wandered around for a bit to check the wares at the retail section but the real fun began when we reached the food section. We sampled a variety of snack items displayed at the stalls, as well as the ones offered by eager roaming hawkers, even though we were not sure what some of them were. The market vendors tried their best to explain, but since we did not understand Thai, we just took whatever they recommended and ate and ate until we were full.

Seriously, we had such a great time. It was like indulging on a cheaper version of a chef’s blind tasting menu. The food was great and the prices were even more awesome. For a little over 20 bahts each, we gratified our hunger with an array of tasty dishes – spicy noodles, spring rolls, shrimp and meat dumplings, meat on skewers, miniature omelets, rice cakes, small bowls of soup, milk and tapioca desserts, and some exotic-looking munchies gulped down with fresh coconut juice.

The noise and chaotic ambiance of the marketplace even provided an element of authenticity to our local dining experience. And since we couldn’t get enough of all the vibrant flavours we tasted, we even bought some new favorite treats to take back to the hotel to snack on later and to share with the rest of our tour mates.

When we arrived at the hotel, tired but satiated, we saw some our tour mates lounging at the lobby, some still with shopping bags on hand. They asked where we had been and why we did not join the shopping spree. We told them about our excursion and asked if they wanted to try the goodies we brought along.

I guess they were hungry. Our paper bags and plastic wraps were emptied in no time and the banana leaves and bamboo sticks were tossed in the garbage as we were explaining what they were eating. After the “gourmet” appetizers they thoroughly enjoyed, we freshened up, had our dinner, and retired for the night to prepare for our long journey the next day.