A Walk Around Mostar

We parked the bus at the base of Hum Hill in front of a big souvenir store and washroom complex and met our local guide for the walking tour. As we were right beside the Catholic church, we went there first.

The Catholic Church of St. Peter and St. Paul was built in the Ottoman era but was completely destroyed during the Bosnian War. It was rebuilt in 2000 on the foundations of the previous building with a much higher bell tower, which, according to our guide, is currently the highest structure in Mostar. If you get lost, you can find your bearings by looking for this tower. 

Beside it, a Franciscan monastery was also built. The entire complex is proud of its library which contains 50,000 volumes of great works from both the East and West that were collected and preserved by the Franciscans. There is also an art gallery that contains collections from the 16^th and 17^th centuries and church artifacts.

Unfortunately, the interior was closed for renovations at the time of our visit. However, it was possible to climb the 107-meter bell tower and see the entire city from up there. Since we were scheduled to walk around the Old Town first, we were told we could go back after the walking tour, if we wanted to climb the tower.

Our local guide led us to the area where the old synagogue used to stand…and yes, he mentioned that Jewish people live in Mostar along with the Christians and Muslims, though nowadays, their number has dwindled.  

In Post-World War Two, since the Communist leaders shunned religion, the synagogue was turned over to the authorities, and they turned it into a puppet theatre. When Bosnia declared independence from Yugoslavia, the building was handed back to the Jewish community, but it was badly damaged during the Siege of Mostar when the nearby Orthodox church was blown up, since they were both standing in the former frontline area. Few as they were, more than 100 Jews were killed and many fled. Today, among the approximately 1,000 Jews that chose to remain in Bosnia, around 50 of them are in Mostar.  

The present-day vacant lot with a menorah-ornamented metal fence surrounded by wrecked apartment buildings and stray garbage in the neighbourhood was to be the site of a reconstructed synagogue and a Jewish cultural centre that will house a museum, library, and auditorium and will be open to members of all faiths. In fact, a cornerstone was already laid in 2008, and it was attended by a Serbian Orthodox archbishop, the deputy Catholic bishop of Mostar, and the chief imam of Mostar.

People quipped that “the Jews are the only glue that can bring together all the other religions.” This project was to be part of a fifteen-million-dollar World Bank credit that also aimed at reconstructing the Old Bridge (completed), as well as building a Serbian Orthodox church (ongoing) and a Croat cultural association building (ongoing).

At the time of our visit, however, there was still no synagogue. Apparently, they are still waiting for the construction permit. The delay is said to be due to politics and it’s anyone’s guess how long the process will take.

We also walked along that streets surrounding this vacant lot, with many of them dotted with derelict homes. Our guide said that the municipality couldn’t do much because the owners had fled with their entire families to other parts of the world during the war and have not returned. The houses are still registered under their names but to trace their whereabouts was going to take a long time and this task is not exactly on top of their list.

I guess they would be left as-is for many more years until the owners reclaim them.

We proceeded to the Old Town, the area where most tourists go, which is not surprising because it is an entirely different world from the war-torn area surrounding it and emits an entirely different vibe.  It was like walking away from a scene from “The American Sniper” and entering Disney’s world of Aladdin. As approached the main street, I almost expected to bump into Ali Baba running away from the Forty Thieves.

Before us were Ottoman-style buildings with their grand domes and stately columns, cobbled streets winding through the bazaars, curved minarets jutting up proudly into the sky, and quaint shops selling Arabic lanterns, copper plates, fez hats, carpets, and jewelry. The pastel-painted façade of restaurants and kafanas create a kaleidoscope of colors that glittered in the mid-morning sun. It was absolutely enchanting.

Our local guide said he hoped we all had proper footwear. The roads in the Old Town are paved with river stones that could be quite slippery. I was wearing my trusty walking shoes, but had I known, I would have worn my runners instead, for better traction. I felt bad for my tour mates who were wearing sandals and heeled shoes. We joked that at least, we were getting free foot massage as we walked, and that we should be thankful that it’s not a rainy day.

Our Tour Director said that he loves Mostar but hates walking in the Old Town. He is flat-footed and the stones makes him lose his balance. After entrusting us to the capable hands of the local guide, he said he’d spend the rest of the morning getting caught up with paperwork and tour arrangements at his favourite restaurant. He told us that the walking tour should be done by around lunchtime and for those who would like to re-join him, he’d be having his lunch there.

It’s called Restaurant Divan and the entrance is right before we reached the Old Bridge. Aside from their amazing food, this restaurant has a three-floor terrace that overlooks the Radolboja River, if we wanted to dine al fresco, or if we wanted some respite from the heat, the interior is air conditioned. Otherwise, there are a lot of choices for food, cold drinks, and coffee around the Old Town as well.

I took note of the restaurant’s name and tried to remember its location, which I thought shouldn’t be difficult since it was close to the bridge. Any directionally challenged individual could manage to find his way back here, I would think.

Before we crossed the famed bridge, our local guide first took us to see the important sites on this side of the river. She led us to a side street on the left where the Karadozbegova Dzamija (Karadjoz-Bey Mosque) greeted us. It is a modest-sized mosque built by the Ottomans in the 16^th century. It looks like a domed cube fronted by a double portico with the inner one supported by marble pillars and topped by three smaller domes. It also features an elegant minaret that would soon call the faithful to prayer. It is currently an active mosque, re-opened in 2004 after extensive renovation from the damages of war.

Not far stands the Turkish Hamam, also built in the 16^th century, but now houses a museum that has an exhibition on hamam culture and features Ottoman bathhouse artifacts. It also hosts cultural events. It is one of the few remaining examples of the classical Ottoman architectural style left in the whole of Herzegovina. Beside it is a stone structure that used to be a stable. Now, it houses a restaurant, a night club, and a small theatre.

He then pointed to the slopes in the distance and showed us an Orthodox Church halfway through construction. This was being rebuilt from the war. Not far from it is a synagogue, and on the hill summit, the Catholic cross. On the horizon, one can also see the towering minaret from a big mosque and some smaller ones from the Muslim quarter.

All these, he said, is a testament that the people of Mostar are putting in the effort to live in harmony despite the religious differences that bolstered the conflicts a decade ago. Some of the pain still lingers, and sometimes, it feels like everyone is walking on eggshells, but still, they are trying, and for now, they are at peace.

As we walked back to the main street, I noticed a big restaurant with an enclosed patio. Staff in traditional costumes stood outside handing out menus. By the patio entrance, there were dolls in the same traditional costumes. I took a menu and made a note to check this out later as it did look promising.

We turned to another side street on the right and went down a flight of stone steps. It led to the riverbank where a terraced sandy bank lay with more patio restaurants lined up on one side. Our guide said that this is a good place to hang out with family and friends, have a picnic, play a ball game, or just sit and relax with a drink under the huge umbrellas. There are also boat rentals available and one can spend some time floating on the turquoise waters of the Neretva while admiring the Ottoman buildings along its banks.

But the main reason why he took us here is the view of the bridge. This is the perfect spot to admire the Old Bridge in all its glory. The Stari Most is indeed beautiful, more beautiful from what I had imagined it to be from the travel photographs that I had seen.

Spanning the sparkling Neretva River at 25 meters high, this 30-meter wide bridge is flanked on both sides by fortified towers that used to house the mostari or bridgekeepers - the Halebija Tower on the northeast and the Tara Tower on the southwest which now features a photo exhibition on the war, specifically the fighting in 1992 and onwards.

 As I stared at the bridge, I recalled the photo that our Tour Director showed us on the bus, where this bridge was totally destroyed in 1994. For a time, a wooden replacement was installed but the original bridge was eventually rebuilt with the exact specifications and Ottoman construction technique. They even used the old stones left lying in the river after the bridge was bombarded.

During the reconstruction, professional divers recovered the original materials from the bottom of the river. After a decade, the resurrected bridge was opened in 2004 and was given the UNESCO World Heritage Site designation. I could see how the destruction of this bridge truly devastated the locals, but now that it is proudly standing again, and gaining much fame and popularity, I felt honoured to be given the opportunity to admire it from a few meters away.

A big factor for its popularity is the bridge jump, done in the summer months by members of the Mostar Diving Club, as well as self-proclaimed professional divers and local showmen. From the top of the bridge, they jump feet first into the cold waters amidst the cheers and shouts of the crowd. Some divers will only do it once they’ve collected at least 25 euros in donation.

But our local guide emphasized that it is something that you cannot do on a whim. You must obtain a permit, and to get one, you must present proof that you are either a professional diver or that you have completed the mandatory diving course provided to tourists and visitors who want to do the plunge.

To be on the safe side, there are usually divers on stand-by, ready for a rescue, in case something goes wrong, because let’s admit it, there are over-enthusiastic tourists out there who either underestimate the jump or overestimate their skills out of pure adrenaline rush. He also said that the water temperature of the river often falls below 7 C, making it one of the coldest rivers in the world. Often, the divers first douse themselves with water to get their bodies accustomed to the river temperature in preparation for their daredevil leap.

This diving activity, which attracts tourists from all over, officially began just a few years ago, but this is actually an age-old tradition, dating back centuries. It is said that jumping off the bridge was some kind of a rite-of-passage for Mostar men. This ritual was a step into becoming a man and was an informal way to welcome them into this unspoken brotherhood of bravery. Nowadays, it has also evolved into a popular sporting event.

Every September, a “cliff diving” competition is held here, sponsored by Red Bull.

Fortunately, none from our group was interested to jump, so we went on our way after taking photos. I was disappointed though, because at that moment, there were no divers nearby. I was hoping to witness one from this vantage point. But our guide said, “You wait and see…it is still quite early…just stay alert!”

We went back up and this time, crossed the bridge itself. It was surprisingly steep, which was not evident when looking at it from afar. And boy, was it ever slippery! Even with good walking shoes, the stones on the surface are tricky. Luckily, someone had thought of building raised treads to help prevent slipping. So, I stepped on those instead of the smooth, flat stones. I also held on to the railings, which was a challenge because there were so many people crossing the bridge and stopping at points to take pictures. I felt so bad for the parents hauling their kids’ strollers over the bridge, and the elderly who were walking with canes. I could just imagine how it would be like on a rainy day. We did not linger on the bridge. After admiring the views from both sides and taking a few photos, we marched on. There were more things to see on the other side.

The main attraction, of course, aside from the Old Bridge itself, is the Carsija (market), on the other side of the bridge. It has an eastern flavour, making one feel that he’s in Istanbul.

The market was teeming with people, both locals and tourists, and the shops were filled with Ottoman wares – rugs and carpets, scarves and robes, bracelets and earrings, copper plates and coffee sets, and various souvenirs. In between the shops are restaurants and kafanas offering the best Herzegovina food and traditional Bosnian coffee.

We followed our local guide like an obedient herd of sheep. It was good that he was wearing a brightly coloured shirt for us to easily spot him amidst the throng of people. We were getting closer to noon, and the sun and the heat were starting to become unbearable, at least for me, who doesn’t do well in the humidity. I took it easy with the walking and lagged a little behind as we quickly went through the tourist “must-sees.”

At the end of the tour, he bid us goodbye and we went our separate ways – go for a drink at a pub, eat lunch, shop, or explore the tourist sites that caught our interest. Among the sites he showed us were the following:

• Old Bridge Museum – features an exhibit on the history of the bridge, its destruction, and reconstruction

• “Don’t Forget” Stone – a small stone found near Stari Most that serves as a reminder of the civil war and silently tells the visitors that though this city is now a thriving community, there was a time when it was under siege and that many locals living there today have lost friends and family members not so long ago

• Kujundziluk Bazaar – the section of the Old Town market where Turkish shops are located and where artisans sell their traditional handicrafts such as copper items, carpets, scarves, jewelry, clothing, pipes, and others

• Herzegovina Museum – features a small collection of photographs from various periods of Mostar history, and a tribute to a Mostar local who became a Prime Minister of Yugoslavia for six year

• Sahat Kula- the landmark watchtower from the Ottoman period

• Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque – one of the best-preserved 16th-century mosques in the area that also allows visitors to climb its minaret for a small fee in exchange for a magnificent 360-degree view of the city and a prized spot for photographing the Stari Most; not for the claustrophobic because ascending the minaret involves 192 winding steps in a tight column

• Museum of War and Genocide Victims – dedicated to the memory of the victims, in particular, of the Srebrenica massacre; the exhibit includes the victims’ photos, personal belongings, documents, and even forensic evidence

• Biscevic House – a well-preserved Ottoman house, still in its original state and showcases original furniture, rugs, silver, ceramics, and a fountain made of metal jugs; almost feels like a period film set

  
  

• Muslibegovic House – a magnificent house with unique architecture that was once inhabited by a noble family of the same name, and is now a luxury hotel and a museum that still reflects its former Ottoman grandeur through its traditional décor and exhibit; also boasts a well-manicured courtyard with lush flowers and greenery

That short walking tour was quite a sensory overload, not to mention, very emotional. When it was over, the first thing I wanted to do was go indoors, somewhere in the shade, and preferably, one with air conditioning, and just browse anything, really, to alleviate my physical discomfort, clear my mind, and relax. Despite the culturally rich environment, all the war talk left me drained. The memories were too fresh.

I was thinking to myself that ten years ago, while I worried about my final thesis to graduate from university, the people here were worried about how they were going to survive, quite literally. While I looked forward to a bright future, the people of Mostar then were not even sure if they had a future.

I recalled reading about the Balkan wars in the newspapers during the 90s and seeing video clips on the news channel, but at that time, it was for me, a different world, miles away from my own reality. And suddenly at that moment, I became aware that I was standing on that world that a decade ago, was so distant from my consciousness. I was there, on the same grounds where lives were lost.

It was so heavy to bear, heavier than discussing the First and the Second World Wars. The war here happened, not decades before I was born, but when I was already a young adult.

Sigh. I needed to recover, so I focused on mindless window-shopping.